Can I Buff the Top Shield Floor Wax?

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  Q. -   I used the your Top Shield floor wax product over my sealed concrete floors and would like to buff them, is that ok and can i do it a week or more after they have been waxed. Will it improve the preformance of the wax?

 

Hello Tammy

 

  A. -  Yes you can buff it. Whenever you feel it could use it. Of course you don't have to and can simply reapply a fresh coat when it starts to scuff or dull, but you certainly can buff it. It will bring out the gloss more and extend the life. Commercial clients do buff their's to prolong it and lengthen the time between reapplication.

 

Did I use Enough Sealer on My Floor?

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   Q. -   Ask Your Question Here:: I stained and sealed a 400 square foot room, hallway, and closet. Did I do something wrong if I didn't even use a whole gallon of sealer after two coats? The directions say that I should have used two gallons. I made sure I did thin coats but now I'm worried I made
them too thin? Should I do more coats?
Thanks, Donna

Hello Donna,

  A. -   Depending on the porosity of the concrete, some will soak up more sealer as where some will require less. As you have 2 coats down, now look at it overall from a cosmetics viewpoint. Is it smoothed out overall or does some areas look more dry than others? If you have a good even smoothness everywhere then you should be fine with what you have down and can go forward with the final step of waxing. If it's not smooth and even
everywhere and overall, then go ahead with another coat of sealer.

I have cloudy areas on my floor. How do I fix it?

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  Q. -  Ask Your Question Here:: We did the acid stain, and sealer and wax. There were some areas that had a cloudy patchy look. Should we strip with simple green and reseal the whole floor and then rewax?

Hello Angela,

  A. -  Cloudiness is usually caused by moisture trapped in either the sealer or the wax. First, let it cure out for a few days and see if the cloudiness goes away on it's own. Many times it will dissapear with a few days of curing time.

   If not, then do a small test area. Warm your house up to around 80 degrees F, and apply a thin coat of wax and let dry. If the moisture is trapped in
the wax, the fresh coat of wax will open the wax up and the dry warmth will draw the moisture out.

   If doesn't work, then do a small test area again. Strip the wax with Simple Green and see if that does it. If so, remove all the wax, allow to
completely dry and reapply the wax in 2 coats as thin as possible, allowing it to completely dry between coats.

   If removing the wax doesn't remove the cloudiness, then the moisture is trapped in the sealer which means removing the sealer, allowing to
completely dry, and then reapply the sealer in 2 coats as thin as possible, allowing it to completely dry between coats. Allow to cure for a few days,
and then reapply the wax in 2 coats as thin as possible, allowing it to completely dry between coats.

 You can find more on fixing concrete sealer issues in our full article.

I hope this helps

Will the concrete mix of my countertops effect the stain color outcome?

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I'm a contractor and I'm about to start doing concrete countertops. I'm considering using your products by recommendation. Will the cement mix change the colors of the concrete stain as I've heard?

Hello David

   It is true that acid stain is different colors on different slabs of concrete. Applying 1 color to 10 different slabs means 10 different versions of that color. That's the beauty of acid stain, but also why a test must be done for every piece of concrete every time. Especially when it comes to countertops, because the colors are formulated for standard grey concrete that's made from a batch plant and poured from a truck, for foundation slabs, flatwork like driveways, etc. When you do a countertop, the concrete and the mix it is, completely changes the entire ballgame. The stain is reacting chemically with what is present in the concrete mix. Which is why different mixes and batches of concrete create different versions of the stain colors. Changing the concrete mix changes the color reaction and final outcome. A major player especially in countertops and overlays is the portland cement used. As the colors are formulated for a natural grey then using grey does help to an extent, however using a white portland would lighten the colors considerably. Darker browns would be lighter, blacks almost impossible as they would be turned into greys and/or browns.

   The best advice I can give for countertops, is to make some sample boards of some different mixes to do some color tests and see how the different portlands and mixes and stains react together. Check out our guide for how to stain concrete countertops. 

How should I finish new concrete to be stained?

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   Q. -   We are building a new house with a finished basement and plan on using your Artist grade stain. The slab will have foam insulation underneath with a vapor barrier.

How should we specify the finish of the slab to the concrete contractor? How long does the concrete need to cure before we stain it?

 

Hello Mike,

 

   A. -   You should have the contractor to finish it with a nice smooth finish, but not too tight. You want it smooth and even but not so tight it's like a mirror. Also, don't let him use a curing agent. Finally, you will want to likely run a floor buffing machine with the scrubber pad, over the floor during clean and prep to ensure the pores of the concrete are opened up well to accept the stain.

   The concrete needs to cure for 28 days, or until it cures to one uniform color, whichever comes first. The 28 day rule is best.

 

I hope this helps,

I have cloudy patches, how can I fix it?

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love your product. love it love it love it.

screwed up too. after we stained it wife put on sealer when it was too cold and waxed right away. now have whitish marks and cloudy patches that are not going away. how do I remove them without screwing up the floor? sealed using ****** **

Hello Tom,

   I'm not familiar with the sealer you used. It sounds like a solvent base. If so, then it likely didn't cure long enough before applying the wax. See our full explanation here. 

Should I Acid Etch the Concrete before Staining it?

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  Q. -  I have looked at other brands of concrete stains and most have an etching chemical that has to be applied first and depending on brand depends on the brand of etching chemical, if I buy this product do I need the etching stuff, and what brand if so???

 

Hello Blair,

 

  A. -  Concrete Camouflage stains are true concrete acid stains, which means they have the acid in them, and so you don't use any etching products during clean and prep or before applying the stain. Products that call themselves concrete stains, yet require the concrete to be acid etched and/or acid washed prior to application are disguised paints and should be avoided if at all possible. Some examples would be acrylic stains and semi transparent or solid color stains. But the one that really cracks me up is any product that pitches themselves as eco friendly or a safer alternative to acid stains, bragging that they have no acids in them. Then they tell you that in order to use their safer, better, eco friendly stain, that you need to acid etch the concrete first. Of course using a far stronger solution of acid than the diluted muriatic/hydrochloric acid (swimming pool acid) that is used in the actual acid stains. Not to mention a another step added to the process.

 

I have fiber mesh in my concrete. How can I remove the little fibers that stick up?

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 Q.-  I am interested in your product to stain annd seal my concrete, however our builder used glass reinforced fibers in our concrete and several stick up a little although its mostly smooth. Before I stain and seal, what is the best way to remove these ends of these random fibers so the sealer goes on smooth?

 

Hello Kathy,

 

A.-  You can use a floor buffing machine with the scrubber pads. You could also use the sanding pad if needed. However, the sealer may help the fibers to lay down without the need to remove them. Perhaps you should do a small test in a closet or out of the way place, to see, before renting a buffing machine.

 

I hope this helps

Using multiple colors, residue, and temperature...

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   Q.  Hello. I'm very interested in purchasing the island sand, faded linen, mocha, and leather brown acid stains. I will be applying these stains to my back patio, which is 425 sq ft. I have scored a staggered tile pattern look with 18"x12" rectangles and 12" squares. I am going to stain each tile a different color with a soft bristle brush. My questions are...when staining multiple colors should i stain each block the different color as i go or should i do one color at a time throughout my patio? When I rinse the residue will it affect the different stains nearby? Will the residue affect concrete that i do not want to stain? What is the ideal temperature for applying stain outdoors? Thanks for your help.

 

Hello Ronnie

   A.  You can do it either way but I would do all of one color at a time. Just be sure to not step in wet stain. You could also Spray the lightest color over the entire area. Let it dry and then hand color the blocks.

   You can neutralize and rinse it all together at once. The residue shouldn't cross colors, So long as you don't let it dry during the washing. So wash it easily but well, wash it off completely, and get on with it.

   The unstained concrete can be stained by the Residue washing, especially if you let it dry on it. So if possible, don't wash the stain residue over unstained concrete. If you must, then wash down the stained area, keeping the water flowing, then immediately wash down the residue from the concrete that it got on. Have your brush handy. Usually the unstained concrete won't be affected if it's washed quickly with flowing water, and brushed if needed. If it did dry on you and stain a little, then you could do a light acid wash but you really don't want to have to do that, so it's best to just get on with it and get it washed down or avoid washing oven the unstained concrete altogether, perhaps mopping the stained concrete so the residue water doesn't get on the unstained concrete.
   The ideal temp for applying stain depends also on humidity and a couple other factors, but pretty much tropical weather is best. But then when isn't it? Anyway, the minimum temp is about 38 degrees F.

I hope this helps

What effect will snow removal have on my stained walkways?

Hello Richard,

 

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   Q. -  Hello There. I have just purchased a house that has a beautiful acid stained front concrete porch and walkway and was wondering if this product as beautiful as it is can be shoveled of snow, and because of its very slippery nature - can I use ice melting products on it durring the winter time or will it effect the finish ?. your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Sincere Thanks

Hello Rick, 

 

   A. -  What you're talking about doing will damage the sealer. When the sealer has become destroyed and goes away, then the damage will begin on the concrete's surface and thereby the stain. So, if you maintain the sealer each year, then it should last indefinitely. If not, then you'll be restaining in a few years or so.

 

Why is your product different from other acid stains?

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  Q. -  why is your product different from other acid stains?

Hello Shirley,

 

 

   A. -  Concrete Camouflage acid stains, as well as sealers and floor waxes, are different from others because of how we make our products and what we make them out of. Concrete Camouflage upholds the highest of quality standards, and has an aggressive yet patient R & D department. We are staffed with, and work with, not only a number of Ph.D.'s, ranging from their 40's to their 80's, but also artists who have worked for decades with these types of products. We're thereby able to take the best of the industries technology and materials from decades past through today, and tomorrow. Adding to that, practicality, value and user friendliness.

   But it's not just our products that are made better. The same level of quality runs rampant through the shipping department, customer service department, tech department, and all levels of Concrete Camouflage. We started as a family business and are now an employee owned business. Each and everyone of us takes pride in what we sell, what we do, and what we represent.

 

However, rather than taking our word for it. You may want to order in a small test bottle and see for yourself.

 

I hope this helps

 

Can I Stain and Seal over Paint Flecks?

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   Q. -  I have pressure washed , used citrus stripper, cleaned with tsp and pressure washed again some small flecks of paint still elude me. but sanding and additional stripper aren't getting them out, so I decided to ask about staining over them. I know they won't stain but if te color is ok with me will it matter as far as the sealer adhearing properly? Also I already have purchased the audio cd guide can the price be deducted from project kit? Can I get 300 square ft but have 2 different colors? I have fried my samples and like the two layered. Thank you.

 

Hello Linda,

 

   A. -  As you mentioned, the stain will not cover the flecks of paint. It sounds like they're embedded into the concrete pretty well, and if that is the case, then so long as you're happy with the look you'll achieve, then I would say go forward. Of course, if the paints flecks ever let go of the concrete, then that could cause the sealer to flake up in those areas. However, if the paint is indeed flecks, and that embedded in, then it doesn't seem like sealing over them would be a problem.

 

   The amount charged in the kit for the Audio Guide CD is $10.00, and as you have already purchased the CD, then yes we will deduct it from the kit. We'll email you a gift/discount certificate for $10.00 that you can use during checkout, with the kit purchase.

 

   Yes, you can request different colors in the kits. There is a Special Notes section on the kit page that you can fill in when ordering. Just tell us how much of each color and we're happy to take care of it.

 

I Hope this helps

Help!! I used a semi transparent stain and it's not working out. What should I do?

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  Q. -  After staining the floor with a semi transparent stain and while it doesn't look that great it seemed to be fine but after using their water based sealer it is sticky. How can we fix this? Thanks

  A. -  You Can Find Answer Here 

Highlighting help. How do I highlight my concrete using different colors of concrete acid stains?

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  Q. -  I want to use different colors of the concrete acid stain by Concrete Camouflage to give it a more colorful and variated look. Can you suggest a highlighting technique?

 

 

Hello Matt,

 

  A. -  How to highlight concrete using acid stains. First you apply your base overall coat, you will spray it on, keeping the sprayer nozzle about a foot or a foot and a half above the concrete, ensuring that you saturate the concrete well, but not enough to cause puddling. Then after it dries, you will come back and spray on the highlight coat, holding the sprayer nozzle about waist high and randomly fluctuating it from waist high to shoulder high, as you lightly mist the concrete sporadically. Walking backwards and fluctuating from waist level to shoulder level. This will give you some areas that are covered heavier, some areas that are lighter, and some areas that have almost or no highlight coating at all, though they will all be connected with veins of color. That will effectively highlight the concrete without completely covering the base color and also prevent it from looking spotted.

 

Remember these highlighting points. You always do the lighter coat first and then highlight it with the darker color.

Although you can if you choose, you don't have to neutralize it before highlighting it, though it must be completely dry before highlighting as walking in wet stain would leave footprints. You can then let it all sit the required time and neutralize and rinse it all together.

 

I hope this helps

What color should I expect when using Riverstone on exterior brushed concrete?

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  Q. -  Hello, I'm doing a pool deck that is brushed concrete. I understand that each piece of concrete will stain differently, but can you tell me what color is Riverstone typically going to be on this application?

 

Hello Matt,

 

  A. -  Of course it depends totally on your concrete, though application technique does have some effect. Riverstone tends to be more of a brown when applied to brushed concrete. It tends to be more of the grays when applied to smoother concrete, like interior floors. However, you will have a better chance at pulling more grays out of it, if you apply it lightly and then only let it sit for a few hours or just until it is completely dry and then neutralize and rinse it off, rather than letting it sit overnight or up to 24 hours as suggested for most colors. So, if you want more browns or darker grays then apply a saturating coat and let it sit up to 24 hours before neutralizing it, but if you're trying to pull more lighter and/or medium grays then apply a saturating but lighter coat and only let it sit only until it is dry and up to just a few hours before neutralizing it and rinsing it.

 

   You may want to consider ordering a small bottle first to do some small test areas, perhaps on the pool equipment pad, to ensure the color achieved as well as timing and amount needed to achieve the color that your hoping to get.

 

   I hope this helps