Monday, December 17, 2012

I have fiber mesh in my concrete. How can I remove the little fibers that stick up?

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 Q.-  I am interested in your product to stain annd seal my concrete, however our builder used glass reinforced fibers in our concrete and several stick up a little although its mostly smooth. Before I stain and seal, what is the best way to remove these ends of these random fibers so the sealer goes on smooth?
 
Hello Kathy,
 
A.-  You can use a floor buffing machine with the scrubber pads. You could also use the sanding pad if needed. However, the sealer may help the fibers to lay down without the need to remove them. Perhaps you should do a small test in a closet or out of the way place, to see, before renting a buffing machine.
 
I hope this helps

Thursday, November 29, 2012

Using multiple colors, residue, and temperature...

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   Q.  Hello. I'm very interested in purchasing the island sand, faded linen, mocha, and leather brown acid stains. I will be applying these stains to my back patio, which is 425 sq ft. I have scored a staggered tile pattern look with 18"x12" rectangles and 12" squares. I am going to stain each tile a different color with a soft bristle brush. My questions are...when staining multiple colors should i stain each block the different color as i go or should i do one color at a time throughout my patio? When I rinse the residue will it affect the different stains nearby? Will the residue affect concrete that i do not want to stain? What is the ideal temperature for applying stain outdoors? Thanks for your help.
 
Hello Ronnie

   A.  You can do it either way but I would do all of one color at a time. Just be sure to not step in wet stain. You could also Spray the lightest color
over the entire area. Let it dry and then hand color the blocks.
   You can neutralize and rinse it all together at once. The residue shouldn't cross colors, So long as you don't let it dry during the washing. So wash it easily but well, wash it off completely, and get on with it.
   The unstained concrete can be stained by the Residue washing, especially if you let it dry on it. So if possible, don't wash the stain residue over unstained concrete. If you must, then wash down the stained area, keeping the water flowing, then immediately wash down the residue from the concrete that it got on. Have your brush handy. Usually the unstained concrete won't be affected if it's washed quickly with flowing water, and brushed if needed. If it did dry on you and stain a little, then you could do a light acid wash but you really don't want to have to do that, so it's best to just get on with it and get it washed down or avoid washing oven the unstained concrete altogether, perhaps mopping the stained concrete so the residue water doesn't get on the unstained concrete.
   The ideal temp for applying stain depends also on humidity and a couple other factors, but pretty much tropical weather is best. But then when isn't it? Anyway, the minimum temp is about 38 degrees F.

I hope this helps

Monday, October 29, 2012

What effect will snow removal have on my stained walkways?

Hello Richard,
 
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   Q. -  Hello There. I have just purchased a house that has a beautiful acid stained front concrete porch and walkway and was wondering if this product as beautiful as it is can be shoveled of snow, and because of its very slippery nature - can I use ice melting products on it durring the winter time or will it effect the finish ?. your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Sincere Thanks

Hello Rick, 
 
   A. -  What you're talking about doing will damage the sealer. When the sealer has become destroyed and goes away, then the damage will begin on the concrete's surface and thereby the stain. So, if you maintain the sealer each year, then it should last indefinitely. If not, then you'll be restaining in a few years or so.
 

Why is your product different from other acid stains?

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  Q. -  why is your product different from other acid stains?

Hello Shirley,
 
 
   A. -  Concrete Camouflage acid stains, as well as sealers and floor waxes, are different from others because of how we make our products and what we make them out of. Concrete Camouflage upholds the highest of quality standards, and has an aggressive yet patient R & D department. We are staffed with, and work with, not only a number of Ph.D.'s, ranging from their 40's to their 80's, but also artists who have worked for decades with these types of products. We're thereby able to take the best of the industries technology and materials from decades past through today, and tomorrow. Adding to that, practicality, value and user friendliness.
   But it's not just our products that are made better. The same level of quality runs rampant through the shipping department, customer service department, tech department, and all levels of Concrete Camouflage. We started as a family business and are now an employee owned business. Each and everyone of us takes pride in what we sell, what we do, and what we represent.
 
However, rather than taking our word for it. You may want to order in a small test bottle and see for yourself.
 
I hope this helps
 

Monday, October 22, 2012

Can I Stain and Seal over Paint Flecks?

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   Q. -  I have pressure washed , used citrus stripper, cleaned with tsp and pressure washed again some small flecks of paint still elude me. but sanding and additional stripper aren't getting them out, so I decided to ask about staining over them. I know they won't stain but if te color is ok with me will it matter as far as the sealer adhearing properly? Also I already have purchased the audio cd guide can the price be deducted from project kit? Can I get 300 square ft but have 2 different colors? I have fried my samples and like the two layered. Thank you.
 
Hello Linda,
 
   A. -  As you mentioned, the stain will not cover the flecks of paint. It sounds like they're embedded into the concrete pretty well, and if that is the case, then so long as you're happy with the look you'll achieve, then I would say go forward. Of course, if the paints flecks ever let go of the concrete, then that could cause the sealer to flake up in those areas. However, if the paint is indeed flecks, and that embedded in, then it doesn't seem like sealing over them would be a problem.
 
   The amount charged in the kit for the Audio Guide CD is $10.00, and as you have already purchased the CD, then yes we will deduct it from the kit. We'll email you a gift/discount certificate for $10.00 that you can use during checkout, with the kit purchase.
 
   Yes, you can request different colors in the kits. There is a Special Notes section on the kit page that you can fill in when ordering. Just tell us how much of each color and we're happy to take care of it.
 
I Hope this helps

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Help!! I used a semi transparent stain and it's not working out. What should I do?

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  Q. -  After staining the floor with a semi transparent stain and while it doesn't look that great it seemed to be fine but after using their water based sealer it is sticky. How can we fix this? Thanks
 
  A. -  Semi transparent stains are actually just disguised concrete paints. They will usually peel at some point. Our only suggestion is to strip off the paint and then stain it with an acid stain and better quality sealer. And then, use a good quality wax to finish out the project.
 
The manufacturer of the product that you used may have some suggestions other than that.
 
We only work with high quality products and can't really adequately advise on paints, other than to tell you how to strip them off and redo the project with real concrete stains and sealers. For info on removing it, you can search the blog for " paint " and/or " sealer " and find removal info.
 
 

Monday, October 1, 2012

Highlighting help. How do I highlight my concrete using different colors of concrete acid stains?

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  Q. -  I want to use different colors of the concrete acid stain by Concrete Camouflage to give it a more colorful and variated look. Can you suggest a highlighting technique?
 
 
Hello Matt,
 
  A. -  How to highlight concrete using acid stains. First you apply your base overall coat, you will spray it on, keeping the sprayer nozzle about a foot or a foot and a half above the concrete, ensuring that you saturate the concrete well, but not enough to cause puddling. Then after it dries, you will come back and spray on the highlight coat, holding the sprayer nozzle about waist high and randomly fluctuating it from waist high to shoulder high, as you lightly mist the concrete sporadically. Walking backwards and fluctuating from waist level to shoulder level. This will give you some areas that are covered heavier, some areas that are lighter, and some areas that have almost or no highlight coating at all, though they will all be connected with veins of color. That will effectively highlight the concrete without completely covering the base color and also prevent it from looking spotted.
 
Remember these highlighting points. You always do the lighter coat first and then highlight it with the darker color.
Although you can if you choose, you don't have to neutralize it before highlighting it, though it must be completely dry before highlighting as walking in wet stain would leave footprints. You can then let it all sit the required time and neutralize and rinse it all together.
 
I hope this helps

What color should I expect when using Riverstone on exterior brushed concrete?

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  Q. -  Hello, I'm doing a pool deck that is brushed concrete. I understand that each piece of concrete will stain differently, but can you tell me what color is Riverstone typically going to be on this application?
 
Hello Matt,
 
  A. -  Of course it depends totally on your concrete, though application technique does have some effect. Riverstone tends to be more of a brown when applied to brushed concrete. It tends to be more of the grays when applied to smoother concrete, like interior floors. However, you will have a better chance at pulling more grays out of it, if you apply it lightly and then only let it sit for a few hours or just until it is completely dry and then neutralize and rinse it off, rather than letting it sit overnight or up to 24 hours as suggested for most colors. So, if you want more browns or darker grays then apply a saturating coat and let it sit up to 24 hours before neutralizing it, but if you're trying to pull more lighter and/or medium grays then apply a saturating but lighter coat and only let it sit only until it is dry and up to just a few hours before neutralizing it and rinsing it.
 
   You may want to consider ordering a small bottle first to do some small test areas, perhaps on the pool equipment pad, to ensure the color achieved as well as timing and amount needed to achieve the color that your hoping to get.
 
   I hope this helps

Friday, September 28, 2012

Is 16 year old too old to acid stain?

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  Q. -  While my concrete porch is 16 yrs old, it's covered and well protected. Is it too old to acid stain? Also, I have two stairs leading up to patio. Would it look weird to stain the "back" of the steps black and the "top and patio lighter? Thanks!

Hello Elizabeth,
 
  A. -  No, it's not too old to stain, so long as it's free from oils, sealers, waxes, paints, etc. Sometimes older concrete becomes more worn and weathered and thereby may soak up more stain though. So you may want to order a little extra to ensure that you get a good saturating coat. I would suggest that use the Artist Grade Concrete Acid Stain by Concrete Camouflage, rather than a Standard Grade of stain. Also, due to the age, it is possible that it may even need a couple coats of stain to get the richer deeper colors that newer concrete achieves with only one coat of artist grade stain, but it is still certainly stainable.
   Multiple colors are often used and doesn't look weird at all.
 
 
  Q. -  great. Is there an lower outside temp issue I should be aware of, regarding applying the stain and sealer?
 
  A. -  The air and concrete surface temp needs to be 40 degrees F or above.

 
 

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

I have two sections. One darker and one lighter. Will they stain the same?

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Q. -  I have 2 sections of concrete, 2 different colors at time of pour. I would like to apply a color to all of it and try to blend or make compatable. I hope for a more blended interesting shade. Is this doable? 
Thanks
Hello Darlene,
 
   The darker section will stain darker and the lighter section will stain lighter. However, you can stain the entire area, then you can apply a light second coat to the lighter area to darken it up and help blend it in.
 
Thank You for Your interest in Concrete Camouflage.
 

Monday, August 27, 2012

I'm tired of using paste wax! Is Top Shield mop on wax a good alternative?

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Q. -  I'm tired of waxing with paste wax.  Would your Top Shield liquid wax be a good alternative?

Hello Julia,
 
A. -  Top Shield mop on style liquid wax by Concrete Camouflage is an excellent alternative to paste wax to say the least. It was designed for a grocery store chain, and is also used in malls, restaurants, hospitals, and all kinds of commercial and industrial applications. It is also used very extensively in homes all across the U.S. and worldwide. Using a lamb's wool applicator, you simply mop on two initial coats. It lasts for months in high traffic areas, and when it does start to scuff or dull, you simply mop on one coat which replenishes it and brings it back to like the day you did it. It has a traction additive which makes it less slippery and it comes in either gloss or matte finish. We're sure that you will be quite pleased with Top Shield's ease of use, durability, and low maintenance costs.
   However, you will need to strip off the existing wax. You can do so with a commercial wax remover, or the Marine's tells us that Simple Green strips wax very easily and effectively.
 
Thank You for Your interest in Concrete Camouflage.
 

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Can I stain a floor that had on overlay product on it but is now removed?

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Q. -  Hello, we had several rooms in our house concrete stained by a contractor 2 years ago.  He sanded the existing foundation, applied two coats of hybrid concrete overlay, scored it, texturized it, then stained, sealed and waxed it.  It has since cracked and peeled in several areas.  After deciding not to get new flooring, I realized I can peel off the affected areas, since it is scored, like big tiles, and just restain the concrete underneath.    Would I still have to clean the concrete underneath, as it looks pretty good?  Recommendations?  Thank you.
 
Hello Shirley,
 
   A. -  You will need to do a small test area to be sure. If the overlay was a cementious product, and the floor has had any and all sealers, glues, and/or bonding agents completely removed then it should be ok. But again, a small test area should be done to be sure.
 
Thank You for Your interest in Concrete Camouflage.
 

Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Can I use Concrete Camouflage concrete stains on acid cleaned concrete?

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Q. -  can i use the stain if i have used a acid cleaner to clean the floor

Hello Dan,
 
   Once you've used an acid cleaner or acid etching product on concrete, then all standard grade concrete acid stains will be rendered ineffective. However, the Artist grade concrete stain by Concrete Camouflage will still stain the concrete in most cases, though it will also be diminished in it's effectiveness and capacity to stain as rich of a color as it otherwise would have. Which may mean that you will need to do more than one coat to achieve what you would have achieved had you not used an acid cleaner. People all across the U.S. are using the Artist grade stain by Concrete Camouflage on acid cleaned/etched concrete with very satisfactory results. Many achieve the look they desire with only one coat, still though, some do have to do more coats to reach the color richness desired, as mentioned before. You may want to do a small test spot in an out of the way place to be sure of both stain reactiveness and the color you'll achieve, along with determining whether you'll need multiple coats or if one coat will still do.
   That's the long answer. The short answer is yes, the Artist grade concrete stains by Concrete Camouflage will still most likely stain your acid treated concrete.
 
I hope this helps
 

Sunday, July 29, 2012

Will the concrete stain fade on exterior concrete in full sun?

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Q. -  DOES YOUR PRODUCT FADE? IF SO, HOW LONG WILL IT LOOK NOT FADED? THE STAINED CONCRETE WILL BE IN FULL SUN AND SHADE ON THE SAME PATIO. WILL THIS BE A PROBLEM? AGAIN FADING? THANK YOU, ROB
Hello ROB,
 
   The Concrete Camouflage brand of concrete acid stains will not fade. However, if you leave the concrete unsealed then the area exposed to the sun and elements will experience surface erosion, which will eventually cause the exposed area to appear as if it's fading or going away. Because as concrete stains are a surface treatment, when the concrete's surface slowly erodes away, the stain will go with it. If on the other hand, you do seal it and maintain the sealer as needed, (which is typically every few years +/- on exterior and exposed concrete), then the concrete's surface will remain intact and the colors will remain indefinitely.
 
Thank You for Your interest in Concrete Camouflage
 

Monday, July 16, 2012

Should I use a Concrete Acid Stain or an acrylic stain on my painted porch?

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   Q. -  Hi, I am interested in staining my exterior concrete front porch. It is protected by an awning and has been stripped and painted. It was recently stripped of oil based primer and paint and is clean and ready to go-do you recommend additional cleaning for painted and stripped surfaces? I have been comparing acrylic and acid based stains and am looking for a permanent color that will not peel! The porch surface is old and smooth-will acid stain penetrate? I am looking at the Artist Grade Coffee or Brownstone. Thanks! Kathy 

Hello Kathy,
 
   A. -  Acrylic stains are only disguised concrete paints and they will peel. Acrylic stains are using the term "concrete stain" to peddle their junk products and are only intended to extract your cash. So, if you use an acrylic stain, no matter what anyone tries to tell you, you will eventually end up with a mess to deal with and they will have successfully separated you from your cash both now and later.
 
   Concrete acid stain is the only true "concrete stain". It is to concrete like wood stain is to wood, and it will never peel. You must have removed all the paint and mess from your concrete, including out of the pores, in order for concrete stain to work. A good test is to pour water on it. If the water soaks right in then the stain should also. If the water beads up or just kinda sits there a while without readily soaking in, then so will the stain. Once you have it ready, you can final clean with a power washer or a hose and scrub brush. You should final clean with a good soap and water, like T.S.P.(tri-sodium-phosphate) and then final rinse a couple times and allow to dry.
 
I hope this helps

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Can I Stain Concrete that was Colored when it was poured?

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   Q. -   Is this acid staining product compatible with tinted concrete. The poured cement didnt come out the color I wanted.

Hello Lisa,
 
   A. -  Yes it is compatible with concrete that was colored when it was poured. It works fine with Integral colors, which is color that is added into the concrete in the truck and mixed in before being poured, and also with Color Hardeners, which is a colored powder that is added after the concrete is poured and then worked into the concrete's surface.
 
   However, the concrete must be free of any and all curing agents, sealers, oils, grease, wax, and other contaminants. So, if it hasn't been sealed yet you can go right ahead staining it.
 
   Please note: The final color that the stained concrete will be, will be affected by the existing color of the concrete, so tests are certainly needed before staining the entire project to ensure that you like the color it's going to be.
 
I hope this helps
 

Monday, June 11, 2012

I have slippery sealer. What can I do?

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   Q. -   Hello, We live in MN and have a stained and sealed patio that is VERY slippery. With 3 little grandchildren it has become a major concern for me.  Even if the patio is dry and they run across it with wet feet after playing in the pool or sprinkler they will go flying. How can we roughen this up to make it safe?  Thanks!
 
Hello Sue,
 
   A. -   You could of course strip the sealer off, which may be the best in this case. The manufacturer of the sealer used could tell you how best to strip it off, but basically you can use a citrus stripper and straw scrub brush and/or a power washer. Also, you could rent a sandblaster and blast it.
   You could also put a new coat of sealer on that has a traction additive mixed in it. Our Clear Grip traction additive has a sandpaper finish but sealed concrete is still slippery regardless. You should do a test area before doing the entire project.
 
   Another thing to think about is this: if you used a solvent base sealer then it will be much more slippery than a water base sealer because you put solvents on as thick as you can which totally covers over the texture on the surface of the concrete and completely smoothes it off, as to where a water base sealer is put on as thin as you can which allows the the texture in the concrete to still come through, thereby being less slippery.
 
   Again, any sealed concrete can be slippery, especially when wet, so do a test area of whatever you decide to do.
 
I hope this helps
 

Thursday, May 31, 2012

I have a variance in the sheen of my sealer in places, should I apply a third coat?

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   Q. -  I just put 2 coats of sealer (clear shield advanced from concrete camouflage) on my floor last night. When i checked it this morning you can still see a variance in the sheen it a few places. Do you recommend a third coat or will the wax take care of this? BTW the artist grade concrete stain by concrete camouflage did a great job on the acid etched floor. Thank you.
 
Hello Bob,
 
   I would go ahead with another coat of sealer to smooth it out, before applying the wax. The wax may take care of it, but if it doesn't then you'd be removing the wax and applying more sealer anyway.
   However, if you don't have enough sealer to do a third coat, you should do a test before ordering more. You can put a two foot square section of wax down, that half of it covers a smoothed out part and half of it covers a lower sheen part. If it works out then you can go ahead and apply your wax. If it doesn't work and you see you'll need to apply more sealer, then strip off the wax with Simple Green and go forward with your third coat of sealer.
 
   Tip: Now that we're in Summer time heat, it's important to remember that the sealer will try to dry faster which can cause sheen variance and/or roller marks much more easily. Therefore, try to do all sealing in the cooler part of the day, and preferably in shade, if possible. Early morning is really the best because the concrete isn't heated up from the day, as it's had all night to cool off.
 
   Also, thank you for the report on the artist grade concrete stain working well on your floor, which had been previously acid etched. While acid washing or acid etching concrete renders standard grade concrete stains useless and unable to work, it's nice to hear the Artist Grade Concrete Acid Stain by Concrete Camouflage is still doing the job that the others can't.
 
I hope this helps.
 

Monday, May 14, 2012

My floor looks cloudy after I waxed it, what went wrong?

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   Q. -  I recently resealed and waxed my floors with Concrete Camouflage concrete sealer and floor wax. I applied the sealant (2 coats) based on the instructions. I then waited about 12-14 hours until beginning to wax.  The floor was completely dry and no issues that I could see. I put one coat of wax on the floor. After about 8 hours, we checked on the floor. In the right light and right angle, it had an extremely cloudy look to it. However, its not cloudy all over.  There are some spots where it looks perfect.  As we talked and moved around the house, it seemed like the cloudiness was moving across the floor?  The more places we looked, the more it cropped up?

   Can you fathom what I could've done wrong? Any assistance or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hello Luke,
 
   A. -  It sounds like the sealer may have not cured enough before you applied the coat of wax, which allowed moisture from the wax to penetrate the sealers surface and make it cloudy.
 
   You should first give it a day or so to see if the moisture escapes and the problem corrects itself. If it does, then you can apply your second coat of wax.
   If it doesn't clear up in a couple (low humidity and warm) days, then the wax is preventing the moisture from wicking out and escaping, meaning you will need to strip the wax (Simple Green works well) and then let it sit for a couple days or so. The Clear Shield Advanced concrete sealer by Concrete Camouflage will allow the moisture to wick through and escape. Once it does, then you can re-apply the wax.
 
I hope this helps

 

Friday, May 11, 2012

Will the acid stain still work on an Acid Etched Floor?

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   Q. -  If my floor has been acid etched can I still stain it.
 
Hello Bob,
 
   A. -  Not with a standard grade acid stain. However, the Artist Grade from Concrete Camouflage is very successful at staining acid etched floors, when all the others can't, though it won't be as rich of a color as it would have been. You should order an 8 oz bottle and test it in a closet or out of the way place.
 
   Apply the stain and allow it to dry and sit for 24 hours. Easily neutralize and rinse it off. If you want the color darker, then after it dries apply another coat as before.
 
I hope this helps
 

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

I have flaking sealer and faded areas on some old stamped concrete. How can I fix it?

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   Q. -   I have a Large area of Stamped Concrete, Grey in color around my pool.  It is about 10 years old.  I have sealed it every other year.  It is starting to pit / flake in certain areas and the color is very faded.  What product should I use to paint or stain it to give it a fresh look.  Thank you

Hello Michael,
 
   If it's the sealer that is flaking off, then what appears to be faded concrete color may simply be an unsealed surface that would come back to life once the sealer was re-applied. If the concrete's color comes back when the concrete is wet or damp, then you should strip off the remaining sealer and then reseal it.
   If you do find that the concrete needs to be stained, then an acid stain will work fine so long as all the sealer is off and the stain can get into the pores of the concrete.
 
   If the flaking is the concrete itself is spalding off, then the surface of the concrete is losing it's structural surface integrity, which can be caused by many different reasons. Once this has began it will only continue and will eventually need to be removed and replaced with new concrete. In the meantime though, you can camouflage it with acid stains. Also, sealing the entire area may help to slow down the spalding and extend the life of the concrete.
 
I hope this helps

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Should I Remove Rust Spots and Other Questions.

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  Q. -  I am going to try the Concrete Camouflage artistic grade stain and have some questions.
I just pressure washed the driveway today to get any dirt or mildew out of the pores of the cement and it is looking very clean now. Will I have to do this again or any other additional cleaning before putting the stain on when it gets here I would hope early next week?
 
Hello Robert,
 
   A. -  As long as the concrete is still clean, then it should be fine to stain without further cleaning.

Should it be completely dry when I do stain it?
 
   A. -  Yes, the concrete should be dry when applying the stain. It doesn't have to be bone dry though, just dry.

  Q. -  I saw in an earlier blog post that you told someone not to worry about a small rust stain. I have a few rust stains that I can't pressure wash out that are probably 6" to 12" diameter sections. Will these most likely be covered/hidden by the stain as well?
 
   A. -  That depends on the color of stain that you're using, but yes, the stain should help to camouflage the rust spots quite a bit. The browns, blacks, riverstone, and many times even the reds work well. Yet the turquoise, greens, and lighter colors have a harder time. That's why you should do some tests first if you can.

  Q. -  If I do decide or need to try to clean them, will CLR or lime away affect how the stain in absorbed in these areas after I use it? I only ask this since I know the stain reacts with the calcium in the concrete.
 
   A. -  It is true that the stain reacts with the lime and other minerals in the concrete. Anything adversely effecting the existing lime and minerals in the concrete will diminish the stains capacity to work. That's why standard grade stains will no longer work on acid washed concrete and even artist grade stains don't work as well as they would have.
   Besides that, any such harsh cleaning would almost certainly leave an area that is discolored from the rest of the concrete. Even if it did work to take out the rust stain, you would likely be left with a bleached out spot. The spot would then stain differently from the rest of the concrete, so you would only be trading one type of blemish for another, and working hard to do it.
  
   Of course you could do a highlighting coat to help further camouflage the spots. You could stain the entire area with a light or medium color. Then after it dries, you can do a highlighting coat with a darker color. That would help the rust spots to become part of the character of the concrete, rather than blemishes.

  Q. -  Should I dilute your artist grade stain? I have read on many sites that most people at least dilute acid stains 1:1 with water.
 
   A. -  All Concrete Camouflage products are designed to be used straight out of the bottle.
   However, if you prefer to dilute the stain 1:1 and then do a two coat application, rather than using it straight and doing a one coat, then that's fine too. Many contractors do it that way still. So they can spray and brush the first coat, allow it to dry, and then spray only the second coat.

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

I have swirl marks in my stain. What can I do?

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   Q. -  I've stained my floors with a concrete acid stain project kit. I used a brush, mistake on my part. I noticed swirl marks as I was doing the post-stain clean up. I have neutralized and rinsed, but have not applied any kind of sealer. Can I do touch-up work with my remaining stain?
Hello Benny,
 
   A. -  Yes. You need to spray on another coat of stain, which will help quite a bit to cover and camouflage the brush marks. Use an all plastic pump up sprayer. You can add water to the stain that you have left if you need to, to ensure that you have enough for the entire area. Spray on a fresh coat of stain, spraying on enough to lightly saturate the concrete but certainly not enough to puddle it, or that it would run if it were on an incline.
 
   Note: The additional coat will darken the color.
 

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Should I fill deep saw cuts when staining exterior concrete, like sidewalks and patios?

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   Q. -   What about sidewalks and concrete slabs with deep scores?  Can I keep them, but ensure that they are perfectly clear of dirt and dust before staining?  Would I need to fill the scores?  What do I fill them with?
Hello Cathi,
 
   A . -  I wouldn't suggest filling the scores, or saw cuts, unless that's the structurally correct thing to do. They could be expansion areas and any filler would just pop out later, or they could be water access points causing damage and need to be filled. 
   So first, ascertain whether or not and/or which ones should be addressed. If you do decide to fill them then you can use a concrete patching material, mortar, or crack repair material. Though you may want to consider using Deco-Seal. It's what they put between a pool deck and the pool coping at the inside edge of the pool. It allows for contraction/expansion, is custom colored at the time of application so it can be made to blend in or stand out artistically, is topped with a light sand covering which increases the attractiveness and the traction, and it's fairly inexpensive. Though it will usually need maintained about every two to three years, which can include repairs and/or complete removal/redo.
 
   Of course, you could also use hot oil, which would last longer, but would tend to be quite messy and much less attractive.
 
   If you use mortar or a concrete patching material and want to stain it as well, then you need to first know that it will likely stain a different color from the concrete, so you should make sample boards using a few potential filler materials, allow them to dry, and stain them to see what the colors will be, before doing the entire project.
 
   Once ready, you will clean the concrete well such as powerwashing and/or scrubbing with a stiff straw scrub brush and T.S.P. (tri sodium phosphate), rinse well and allow the concrete to dry.
 
   You can use leaf blowers to speed up the drying and also prior to applying the filler material to remove any dust.
 
   If you use a cement filler and want to stain it also, then apply the filler material before acid staining the project.
   If you use a non cementious filler like Deco-Seal or caulking, that can't be stained, or if you use a cement filler but don't want to stain it, then you should acid stain the concrete first, neutralize and rinse, allow to dry and then apply the filler.
 
   It is highly recommended that you seal the entire area, at least the first time, to help enhance and lock in your new look.
 
I hope this helps.
 

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

What's the difference between the artist grade and standard grade concrete stains? I want a marble look.

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   Q. -  i was wondering what the diference in artist grade and regular grade acid stain ? we want the marble look and was wondering witch one we needed to use ? it is a new construction with a slick floor. thanks
 
Hello Mike,
 
   A. -  Other than the different color choices, the Concrete Camouflage artist grade is a one coat stain and the standard grade is a two coat stain. Therefore, you will get twice the coverage from the artist grade, than from the standard grade. On your concrete slab, you would expect a maximum of 400 sq.ft. per gallon using the artist grade, and 200 sq.ft. with the standard grade.
   You can of course, do more coats of either stain if you choose, to achieve a darker color, different colors, or to do additional coats for artistic, highlighting, and/or camouflaging, etc..
 
   As your concrete stain project is new construction and slick finished, you will first want to be sure that there is no curing agent on the concrete. If there is a curing agent, then you'll need to strip and/or lightly sand the surface to completely remove it from both the concrete's surface and pores.
   Since you mentioned the desire to achieve as much marbleization as possible, you should be aware that the more you sand the surface the more that you reduce the marbleization. Therefore, you're better off to remove as much as you can with strippers, and keep the sanding to a light minimum, using more of a fine sandpaper, or a floor buffing machine with the fine sanding disks.
 
   Otherwise, if you don't have a curing agent, as slickened concrete tends to close off the surface pores, thereby reducing the effectiveness of concrete acid stains, you will likely need to use a floor buffing machine with the aggressive scrubber pads during the cleaning stage, to really open up the pores of the concrete well, so the concrete stain can get in completely and achieve maximum reaction.
 
I hope this helps.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Will re-sealing my stained floors and concrete countertops renew them, help with water spots, and be easier to keep clean and looking good ?

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Hello Luke,

   Q. -  I have a couple questions, if you would be so kind. We purchased a house a few years ago with concrete floors and concrete countertops. The concrete countertops appear to be a colored concrete sealed in either acrylic or poly.  My question on this is, can I strip off the sealant and apply one of the Artist Grade Concrete Stains (thinking the Island Sand color)?  Would I need to sand down the top layer or anything like that, or just apply the stain directly to the colored concrete?
 
   A. -  You will have to completely remove all the sealant, including out of the pores of the concrete, in order for the stain to soak in and work. Also, the color will be effected by the existing color, and you can't stain lighter, only darker. You can try to strip the sealer with strippers and removers, but a light sanding is usually inevitable.
 
   Q. -  Secondly, my floors are a stained concrete, again sealed with a poly sealant.  The problem we are having with the floors is they are a dark brown color.  Whenever even a single drop of water touches the floor, it puts a water spot on the concrete that can only be cleaned by stripping the sealant off. Would Concrete Camouflage decorative concrete sealer protect against this?
 
   A. -  If your floor sealer needs to be recoated then our Clear Shield sealers are great, but what you really need is a good floor wax to seal off and protect the sealer, by acting as the sacrificial coat, as well as providing scuff resistance and lasting a while before needing recoated. That's where our Top Shield mop on style floor wax works great.

   Q. -    I'd be looking to seal roughly 1,000 square feet and am in desperate need of something that is actually going to keep water spots away!
 
   A. -  Again, regardless of whether you reseal the floor or not, the wax is the best product to be on top, as it cleans easily. You can mop it with water only or you can use a mild detergent, like dishwashing soap, and then rinse. It should last for months between coats and then you just clean, dry, and apply a fresh coat to keep it looking fresh, looking new, and easy to clean.

Any help would be much appreciated so I can make an informed decision.
 
I hope this helps.

Will the cracks that I filled and patched, stain ok?

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   Q. -  I repaired a number of cracks in my driveway. Will the crack filler material take a stain, or be covered by it? The repaired cracks form a quite ugly pattern. Thanks,  Jim
Hello Jim,
 
   A. -  As long as the product used to fill the cracks was a cementious type product and not a type of caulking or silicone product, it should stain. However, the color that it will stain will usually be different from what the concrete will stain. We recommend putting some of the patching material on a piece of cardboard, to make a sample board. You can then stain a small test area on the concrete in an out of the way place, along with the sample piece of the patching material, to compare.
 
   It may be that a second coat of the stain on the patching will darken it up to blend with the concrete, or vice versa. Or, you may choose to do a second highlight coat of stain all over. You could also consider using the patching as an artistic component and even add saw cuts and/or scoring and perhaps even multiple colors, to complete a truly unique piece of concrete art.
 
I hope this helps.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

Can I Achieve a Gloss Finish with Water Base Sealer and Wax?

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   Q. -  We are going to be using the Twilight color of standard grade acid stain by Concrete Camouflage and were wondering if we can get that Glossy look using the water based sealer and then waxing. If at all possible we would like to use the water based sealer as it just seems much more family friendly and less toxic.  We have 4 little ones and won't be able to easily leave the house overnight etc as solvent base sealers recommends. But we REALLY want to get a nice glossy look out of the floor so if we HAVE to use a less friendly product we will try and figure that out.

Thank you so much!  We have done some test areas with just the stain and are loving what we see so far!
Kristin

Hello Kristin,
 
   A. -  The Clear Shield Advanced water base sealer will have a satin finish. However, the Top Shield floor wax will have a gloss finish. Most everyone uses the Clear Shield Advanced water base sealer, instead of using solvent base sealers, because it is so much safer, more family friendly, and also a green product. They then put the Top Shield floor wax over that to achieve the glossy finish. Unless of course they want a matte finish, which the Top Shield floor wax is also available in matte finish. But you stated that you want a very glossy finish, so let's proceed with some things to think about.
 
   Solvent base sealers are naturally a higher gloss sealer and has such a high gloss for a few reasons, but allot that has to do with it is the fact that solvent base sealers goes on so thick. When you apply water base sealer, you apply it in as thin of coats as possible, which diminishes the gloss achieved from the water base sealer. However, if you apply one or two extra coats of the water base sealer, then you can achieve somewhat of a higher gloss as the sealer builds up. Of course you will have to allow the sealer to completely dry between each coat, but that doesn't take too long, and still doesn't compare to the amount of time that you have to allow solvents to cure.
 
   Next, the wax also goes on in coats as thin as possible. It is glossy, but still, if you do two or three extra coats initially, you can build it up too, and achieve an even higher gloss. Of course you can also use a buffing machine to bring out more of a gloss but I think that really wouldn't be necessary. Again, you need to allow the wax to dry between each coat, but the wax dries quickly.
 
   In conclusion, using the water base sealer at the standard two coats and using the gloss finish wax over that at the standard two coats will give you a nice gloss finish. Though if you want more of the extremely high gloss finish that you would see with a solvent base sealer, you can simply do an extra coat or two of the sealer, and an extra coat or two of the wax. This should allow you to obtain the higher gloss look without having the hazards and trouble of using a solvent base sealer. I would suggest that you do a test in a closet or out of the way place first and then you'll know how many coats of each product to expect to have to use to achieve your desired level of gloss.
 
   A couple final notes about solvents vs. water base sealers. Solvent base sealers along with having a higher gloss will make the concrete look as it does when it is saturated wet. Many times this is simply too darkened and negates much of the color variances and nuances which makes stained concrete so artistic and beautiful. Water base sealers, or least the Clear Shield Advanced water base sealer, makes the concrete look as it does when it's lightly damp. The colors are still enhanced more than when the concrete is completely dry, but not darkened up so much as when it's saturated wet.
 
I hope this helps
 

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Advice on Patching Concrete and Using Decorative Taping to Create a Border.

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Dear Earl,
Sorry, I have a few more questions.
 
Hello Kimberly,
No problem at all. We're happy to help all that we can.
 
 1) Would you recommend cleaning with the TSP prior to patching the tack strip holes or patch and then clean?
 
    A. -  You need to ensure that concrete is as clean and dry and dust free as possible to ensure the best chances for the patch to stay in place. The sealer and wax will help to hold it down, but if the patch loses its bond then it will pop out, so there is no replacement for good and adequate prep. Therefore, yes. I would use the T.S.P. and water to thoroughly clean the concrete to be patched first. Be sure and rinse it a couple times with clean water afterwards.
   NOTE: A little extra advice just in case you need it. After you apply the patching material and smooth it out as best that you can, you need to let it dry and cure for at least a day or two, more if it's curing slowly. Then you will use a concrete rubbing stone to rub it and smooth it out, which will feather it into the concrete. It's like sanding bondo on a car body repair to smooth it out, which helps it to disappear into the surrounding area. The rubbing stone can be found in the concrete tools area at your local lumber yard or home improvement store. If going to a local home improvement store then the concrete tools are usually down at the lumber end with the sacks of concrete and concrete patching materials. It looks like a small rectangular cinder block with a handle on it, and it will make the patch blend in and smooth down quickly and easily.
 
 2) Also which do you think would be the best method of applying the stain with the tape, using the brush method or the 2 light coats of stain?
 
    A. - If you're going to use a different color or do multiple coats on the border, or certain areas, then I would brush on the border and/or decorative areas, and then spray the rest of the floor. If you're using a darker color on the border, or say, opposing blocks - you can apply the darker color with the brush and then spray the entire floor with the lighter color, including over the darker brushed on areas because the darker color will overpower the lighter color anyway.
   If you're using the tape as a design in the floor but using the same color overall then I would just spray it all and forego the brush.
 
   NOTE: Be sure and rub the tape down really well, especially along the edges, and be sure to not saturate the tape too much because the stain will try to get underneath it, which is why you drag the stain up to the tape when brushing, and why you spray directly down over the tape with two lighter coats, rather than spraying at an angle or spraying heavier coats.
 
Thanks for all of your help!
Best regards,

I hope this helps,

ConcreteCamouflage.com

 

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Questions about doing a floor that had carpet before.

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   Q. -  We are planning on staining a basement bedroom floor, using Concrete Camouflage products, and have a few questions.
 
Hello Kimberly,

   Answers follow the questions.
 
1) Is the only difference in the Artist grade and the standard (1 coat needed vs. 2)? How many coats do you recommend?
    A. - Yes, that is the only difference, The Artist grade is a one coat stain (although you can do additional coats for a darker look) and the Standard grade requires two coats minimum. Other than that, the only other difference is the color choices.

2) The concrete was poured in 1968, will there be enough lime left to stain nicely?
    A. - There should be, though you never know for sure without doing a test area first, like in a closet or an out of the way place. You could purchase some sample sizes first to test not only the chemical reaction, but also the colors. Due to the age of the concrete I would suggest only using the Artist grade concrete stain by Concrete Camouflage for sure. 
    When you do your tests, do one test with one coat and also one test with two coats, of each color that you're testing, to see if one coat will be adequate or if it will require two coats due to the age of the concrete.

3) What is the best way to remove some paint spots from the concrete?
    A. - You can use a citrus stripper, paint stripper, paint thinner, or Xylene(though it's very flammable and requires adequate ventilation), or you can use a heavy duty glue remover which also works well. You may still need to lightly sand the floor and if so, you can use a small belt sander, a rented floor sander like they use on wood floors, or even a floor buffing machine with the sanding disks.
   NOTE: If the paint spots are small and only a few, then you may want to just strip them as well as you can with a citrus or paint stripper, and then if you do still see the paint spots after staining, then you can use a children's water paint set (like you get at the dollar store for the water paint coloring books) so that you can mix the colors to blend with the stain and then lightly paint over the spots and feather it in to camouflage the spots. Then seal over it to lock it in and complete the camouflaging technique. Once the sealer and wax is on, then the colors will blend underneath and look natural. Simple and inexpensive camouflaging that works well.

4) Do you recommend the C5p32 degreaser instead of a local hardware store brand?
    A. - I would only use degreaser if the floor has oil or grease on it and/or in the pores of the concrete. Otherwise just cleaning it well with T.S.P. (tri-sodium-phosphate) will be enough. If there's no oil or grease, which you can usually tell by wetting the floor down to see if the water soaks right in or beads up or just kinda sits there awhile before soaking in, and also looking for discoloration. If you do decide to use a degreaser then I would suggest that you use Concrete Stain Prep (C.S.P.) by Concrete Camouflage, as it was designed to be used specifically when using concrete stain. It not only degreases but also cleans, strips, and removes dirt, light duty glues, water base paints, and more, that other degreasers can't touch. It can even be used to remove tire marks from rubber tires. It will outperform all other degreaser products, and it's inexpensive as well. Regardless of which degreaser that you use, you will still need to final clean with T.S.P. and then final rinse a couple times with clean water.

5) What is the best way to hide tack strip holes from carpet? We will be using concrete filler to fix the divets. We were thinking we would need to use a darker stain. Any suggestions would be great. We are debating between Canon or Maya stone for the main part of the floor but not sure what to do around the edges for the tack strips. We are also going to use the cc3mt tape to make lines.
    A. - Using a darker stain color is a great idea, and a common practice, as the concrete patching material will most likely stain a different color. You should use some of the patching material on a piece of cardboard to make some sample boards of the material. Then when you do the color tests on your concrete, you can also do color tests on the patching material sample boards. Then you will see how much, if any difference, the patches will be from the floor. It may be that doing a second coat on the patches helps it to blend, or vice versa, or it could be that a different patch material works out better, or you may see that you need to really darken out the border area. Also, you can always use the water color paint trick, mentioned above, on the divots if needed too.
   Just a personal opinion, but when using Canyon or Island Sand, the Honey Oak or Leather Brown looks great with it. The Coffee also works well for a much darker color and camouflaging or darkening out.
   If you do use tape to make lines for the border, then it's important to try and keep the stain from getting under the edge of the tape, which it will try to do. So, brush on the border color using a brush and bucket. Dip the brush, tap out the excess stain in the bucket, and then place the brush in the center of the border area or near the wall. Brush in a circular motion towards the tape so that once you reach the tape, the stain is out of the brush and you are dragging the stain to the tape. Additionally, if you spray over tape, then be sure to not spray at an angle, but rather spray directly down over the tape. Also, it's better to do a couple light misting coats than one heavy coat. Remember that the stain is liquid like water and will want to get under the tape if possible.
   Finally, you can do the border first in a darker or even the same color, and then spray the entire floor, including the border, with the lighter color.

6) If we seal the concrete after the stain, will we need the wax?
    A. - You should certainly still wax it. The wax is the best part. It's the sacrificial coat. Top Shield by Concrete Camouflage lasts for quite a long time in high traffic areas and when it does start to scuff or dull you just apply a fresh coat and it's back to new. It makes the cleaning a breeze and maintenance easy and inexpensive, while ensuring that your new stained floor stays looking new, and when maintained properly will ensure that your stained floor lasts indefinitely. Also, the Top Shield floor wax comes in gloss or matte finish.
   Also, by sealing and waxing both, you are layering in clear coats that will add to the depth, luster, and appearance of an expensive floor.

Thanks in advance for your help. We are excited to get started but we need to get our questions answered first so we know what to order. Kimberly
 
I hope this helps,
Earl.
800 650 1157
Earl Choate, Ph.D.
 

Monday, January 30, 2012

Will the stain penetrate a thin layer of paint on the floor?

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   Q. -  Hello- I am wondering if the stain will penetrate a very thin layer of paint...I have pulled up the carpeting from my lower level and it appears that the developer let some paint hit the floor when he was spaying the walls. It is very random and I don't mind it. I was thinking of just sealing and waxing the floor but I think I want it to be a bit darker. Please let me know when you have a chance. Thank you.
Hello Mark,
 
   A. -  The concrete stain will not stain nor penetrate paint. You need to strip and/or lightly sand the paint to remove it first. You can use paint strippers, or citrus strippers, or even heavy duty glue removers which work very well. For sanding you can use a belt sander for small areas, or you can rent a floor sander like they use on wood floors, or you could even use a floor buffing machine with the sanding disks which keeps it inexpensive and easy to do.
 

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

My older and painted floor is peeling. What should I do?

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   Q. -  It seems that most over your tips are about new concrete. I wanted to know how and what products to paint an older floor that is painted but the paint has pealed.
Hello Harriet,
 
   A. -  You should completely remove all the existing paint, and then use the concrete acid stain, sealer, and wax, using Concrete Camouflage products, and the directions and tips online at ConcreteCamouflage.com 
 
   The paint can be stripped off using a citrus stripper or a heavy duty glue remover, and then, if there is still any paint left, including in the pores of the concrete, you can sand it with a rented floor sander or a floor buffing machine using the sanding disks. Then you should be ready to go forward with the concrete acid stain, sealer, and wax.
 
   IMPORTANT: You should not use paints or acrylic stains(which are just disguised paints) because it will just peel again. Only concrete acid stain is real concrete stain, like what wood stain is to wood, so don't let anyone fool you.
 
I hope this helps
 

Can I use your sealer on a kitchen concrete countertop where I prepare food?

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   Q. -  I am looking to use a sealer for concrete counter tops.  Is your sealer safe for kitchen counter top use, food handling, etc.?
 
Hello Kim,
 
    A. -  Clear Shield Advanced concrete sealer by Concrete Camouflage is a pure acrylic water based sealer made for all types of concrete. It is approved for use in FDA inspected facilities. Many people have used it on their concrete countertops for years now, and we have had no complaints at all.
 
   However, with that being said, we do not condone or recommend it's use on surfaces where food will be prepared directly on the sealed surface. Therefore, if you choose to use it on your countertop(s), we suggest that you prepare any foods on cutting boards or other such countertop coverings. Both to protect the sealer from any damage when preparing foods and of course to ensure that you do not take any chances when it comes to protecting yourself and your families health.
   We make this suggestion not only in regards to our sealer but with any sealer, and with all concrete countertops, regardless of what any particular manufacturer or sales person might say.
 
I hope this helps
 

I don't want a glossy finish on my floor. Do I have to seal it and wax it?

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   Q. -  My concrete floor has been done really badly.
Now I want to give it a colour to make it more equal,
but I don't want this shining sealer layer on top of it.
Is it necessary to use the sealer or can I can skipp that part.
Best,

Hello Marleen,
 
   A. -  While you don't absolutely have to, it's a really good idea to seal it and then wax it. This will protect and thereby greatly extend the life of the floor and make cleaning and maintenance much easier, and less expensive in the long term. Fortunately for you, Concrete Camouflage has a satin finish sealer and also a matte finish mop on style wax available. So you can have the best of both worlds. A protected and easy to clean floor along with not having to have the glossy finish that you want to avoid.
 
I hope this helps
 

I have milky white areas after applying the mop on wax. Why and how can I fix it?

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   Q. -  I recently purchased some no buff wax (matte) and applied it this past weekend. I applied two coats, with it being over 24 hrs. I know have a milky film on 60% of the floor. The question I have is how can I fix this?
thanks,
 
 
Hello Eric,
 
   A. -  It's most likely caused by moisture which is either trapped under the wax or trapped in the sealer.
 
   If you applied it to a floor that has been sealed with a solvent base sealer, and the sealer hadn't cured well enough, then the water in the wax can penetrate into the solvent base sealer and cause it to turn milky as the water becomes trapped in the sealer. If this is the case then that would mean having to strip the wax and sealer, and then start over with new sealer and new wax, allowing the solvent base sealer to completely cure before applying the wax. Solvents take several days to cure out, and that is just one of several reasons why solvents are quickly becoming the dinosaurs of decorative concrete.
 
   If you applied it to a cured floor, then the floor must have not been completely dry when you applied the wax, or you didn't allow it to dry completely enough between coats. If this is the case, then you should allow it to sit for a couple more days to see if the moisture will escape and thereby correct itself. If not, then you will have to strip the wax and re-apply it, ensuring that the floor is completely dry before re-applying it and ensuring that wax dries completely between coats. You can easily strip the wax off with Simple Green.
 
   While rare, it could also be that moisture is wicking up through the concrete. This can be the case on certain exterior applications and also on certain basement floors, though it can also happen on house slabs too, if the concrete company didn't use a vapor barrier (plastic on the ground) when pouring the concrete.
 
   Finally, if you stained the floor and did not seal it prior to applying the wax, then that would mean that it is either one of the above situations, or the stain was not properly neutralized and is having a reaction with the wax. Which would mean stripping the wax, further neutralizing the stain, applying sealer, and rewaxing. Of course ensuring that the floor completely dries between each step and coat of product.
 
I hope this helps
 

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Do you have teaching seminars? How long does your products last? Good for high traffic?

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   Q. -  HELLO , I WANT TO KNOW IF THIS PRODUCT IS GOOD FOR HIGH TRAFIC AREA.HOW LONG DOES IT LAST.DO YOU CONDUCT TRAINING.
 
Hello Jessey,
 
   A. - Concrete Camouflage products are great for high traffic. The stain is permanent, the wax last for months, and if you properly maintain your Concrete Camouflage stained, sealed, and/or waxed surface, then they'll last indefinately.
 
   We don't take advantage of people with expensive training seminars. We simply sell an audio guide cd that has more info than dozens of dvd's and/or several seminars combined. We follow that up with both email and toll free telephone assistance as needed.
 
I hope this helps.

Friday, January 6, 2012

Can I Wax my Driveway?

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  Q. -  I have  a driveway that was overlay , acid stained, a two coats of oil base clear. I mop it but still doesnt look like new 3 months ago. Can i wax it to keep it looking like new? or what do I do to make it look great all the time
 
Hello Vernon,
 
  A. -  The wax would help to keep it nice, just as a floor. And when it does start to scuff or dull, you just apply a fresh coat. However, while our wax has been used extensively in garages and on exterior porches and patios, to put it on a driveway would be the first time I've ever heard of it being done, and I'm not sure how it would hold up to the vehicular traffic.
 
   It sounds like the sealer is not holding up well. Perhaps you should consider applying our sealer over your existing sealer first to see if that would do it. Our sealer is quite good and holds up quite well. It's a water base acrylic and should be fine to apply right over your existing sealer.
 
   Regardless of whether you decide to apply our sealer, or go ahead with the wax, I would suggest that you first purchase a small sample size bottle and just do a small test area first to be sure that you'll be happy with the results. Of course the wax can be stripped off easily if doesn't work, but there's no sense in spending that much to do the entire project before you are sure that you'll get the results that you're after.
 
   The only cautions that I can think of in regards to the wax on the driveway are these. The wax will strip off with Simple Green, which means that oil drips, gas drips, harsh chemicals, etc will also strip it. Also, when there is standing water on the wax it will turn a milky white, though once it dries it will dry back to clear as it was before. Finally, I don't know about hot tire pickup. While we haven't seen any in the garages, a driveway is an entirely different thing as it has the direct sun and more traffic. So again, you should do a test area where you'll be driving over it before applying it to the entire area.
 
I hope this helps.
 

Sunday, January 1, 2012

How many square feet does the project kits cover?

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   Q. -  I am interesting in purchasing a concrete stain kit, however, i would like to know the surface coverage to determine how much i would need for my project.
 
Hello Damion,
 
   A. -  The project kits are customizable to fit your square footage needs. When you click on the kit of your choice, then you will select your color, and then you will select how many square feet that you need to cover. Then the amount of products your ordering along with the price will adjust accordingly.
 
   Also, once you click on the project kit of your choice, whether it be interior or exterior, standard grade or artist grade, it will explain how much product you will be receiving, per each square foot increment.
 
I hope this helps