Monday, August 30, 2010
Ask a Pro
Q. - Please help in getting rubber tire marks off plain concrete.
A. - That's easy to do when you use the Concrete Camouflage C.S.P./ Degreaser - Cleaner. Just pour it on the tire marks and let it sit for a few minutes or so, while ensuring that you don't let it dry. Use a stiff straw scrub brush(also from Concrete Camouflage) to move the CSP around as it soaks in, so as to keep it from drying on you. Add a little more after a few minutes and give it a little scrub with the straw brush. It shouldn't take much scrubbing at all, so let it sit a little longer if need be. Then wash it down with a sprayer nozzle or preferably a power washer if outside, or mop it up if inside.
Note: While some people say that they only need to pour on the CSP and allow it to sit a few minutes and then it will power wash right off, we still find that scrubbing it with a straw brush usually gets it up better.
The CSP degreaser / cleaner is great for normal tire marks. Especially in garages, homeowner driveways, and the such. For really intense and massive tire marks such as on a commercial driveway or parking lot, while it usually works fine, if the CSP degreaser isn't strong enough, then you can use the CSP Stripper which is so strong that it can melt rubber tires.
A final Important Note: The CSP stripper will strip concrete sealers. So while it's great for clean and prep, you shouldn't use the stripper on sealed concrete unless you intend to strip the sealer, and you should only use the CSP degreaser sparingly on sealed concrete and understand that you are still slowly stripping the sealer.
Monday, August 23, 2010
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Q. - Ok, using another companies products, we acid stained our floor to the color we wanted. (neutralized, too.) First coat of water based sealer went on OK except for a few white bubbles which rollered out. Next coat of sealer had larger white areas. Told to use xylene, it worked. Disti said to apply a two part water based sealer now. First coat OK, final coat BAD!!! Huge areas of blisters. They supplied a steel wool pad for a rented machine and basically kissed off.
The pad has removed stain color as well as sealers (expected). What are our options? SHould we restain the places, and then try to seal the entire area? (Not all is blistered) We've read on your "ask" site that spraying is good, and we would like to avoid the sealer roller marks we had before.
SHould we just take it all down and start over? Are polyurethanes easier to deal with? This is an unairconditioned area, which I read makes for warmer concrete and issues. Any help you can give would be appreciated. THanks!
A. - It has been a hot summer and too much heat can effect these types of products adversely. Anyway, on to the fix.
You should finish removing all the sealer and as much of the stain as you can first (if there is any left), which means getting the sealer out of the pores of the concrete as well as the surface. You can use a rented floor buffing machine with scrub pads, and even a fine grit sanding pad if needed. You will need to clean it with Concrete Camouflage C.S.P. - Degreaser, once. Then a final clean with T.S.P(tri-sodium-phosphate), and two clean water rinsings. Then let it dry.(Not bone dry - just dry.)
Once the floor is dry, you can apply the stain. Use the Concrete Camouflage Artist Grade concrete acid stain. We suggest that you spray it on rather than brushing it, especially since you're in a warm area, and it is important to work from wet edge to wet edge. Allow the stain to dry for several hours and even up to 24 hours.
Then neutralize the stain with ammonia and water, and do two clean water rinsings. Remember to change your water often.
Once the floor is dry, then you can apply two coats of Concrete Camouflage Clear Shield Advanced formula water base decorative concrete sealer. Roll on one coat as thin and as even as you can. It goes on white and dries clear. When it has dried completely, roll on the second coat as thin and as even as you can, and try to go in a different direction if possible, with the second coat.
After the sealer has cured out dry and clear, which we suggest you give it a couple of days at least, then apply two coats of Concrete Camouflage Top Shield mop on style floor wax. Apply it in as thin and as even of coats as possible also, though you will use a lamb's wool applicator and a paint pan to apply the wax. The wax usually takes about an hour to dry between coats and needs to cure for at least two hours, though overnight is best.
Important Note: The heat will cause these types of products to be less user friendly than in a cooler environment. Therefore, you should schedule to do each phase of the project in the coolest part of the day, which is usually early morning as the air and the concrete both have had all night to cool down.
To answer your last question, as polyurethanes are a two part/two phase product they would be even more difficult to work with in a warmer environment.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Ask a Pro
Q. - Hello, I have glue down carpet on my concrete floors. What is the best way to clean and smooth the concrete surface before applying the products.
A. - After you remove all the carpet, you can use a citrus stripper, a mastic remover, or a heavy duty glue remover to remove the most of the glue, using scrapers and stiff straw scrub brushes. Then you can rent a floor sander or a floor buffing machine with the fine grit sanding disks, and lightly sand the floor. Then you can mop it well with T.S.P. and water and then a couple clean water rinsings and you should be good to go. Watch to see if the water soaks readily into the concrete, or if it beads up or just kinda sits there. If it soaks readily in then the stain should be able to as well.
In the event you are still left with any residual glue marks or stains in the concrete, they can be camouflaged by using a secondary highlight coat, or perhaps using a scored pattern and/or multiple color schemes.