Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Can I stain concrete that has Fibermesh in it?

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  Q. -  The concrete floor has fiberglass reinforcement will there be any issues with using your staining product? Since it is a new floor do I still have to use TSP to clean it or just was with clean water and apply stain? Thank you.
Hello Michael
  A. -  It should be fine. People stain concrete with Fibermesh all the time. T.S.P. is a really strong soap that deep cleans into the pores of the concrete. It is advised because the stain has to get into the pores to work well. Also, if your floor is really tight(slick) you should use a floor buffing machine with an aggressive scrubber pad to help open the pores. You'll know if you need it by doing the water test. Pour some water on it and observe whether it soaks right in, or just sits there a while or beads up.
I hope this helps

Monday, May 13, 2013

When is the best time to stain my concrete floor during new construction?

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   Q. -  I've got a large unfinished basement (almost 3,000sqf) that I'm going to be finishing off this summer. I just received my samples of your stain and will be experimenting with it this weekend to decide what color(s) we want to use. I had intially planned to stain and seal the entire basement before putting up the walls, hanging sheetrock, etc. Just one big open space to work with and I wouldn't have to worry about splashing it on the walls, etc. But now I'm wondering if that's the best idea. Am I going to damage the floor by doing that? Would I be better off waiting to do the stain and sealing until after the main construction is done?
Thanks for your time.
Hello Shalom
  A. - Many people cover and protect the floors during construction and wait until last to do the floors. However, most people and all the contractors prefer to stain, seal, and wax it after the walls are framed, but before sheetrock goes up. Then cover it and protect it during construction. Then afterwards, uncover and rewax it to bring back the shine. That way the concrete is protected from anything that might get on the concrete and get into the pores of the concrete accidentally. It's easier to strip the wax and reapply it if something gets on it, as anything minor that gets on it should come up with the wax, rather than to have to be stripping, scrubbing, and possibly sanding the concrete to remove things like paint, glues, oils etc., that would then be a potential blemish on the floor.
   Regardless of when you do it, the concrete floor must be covered well and diligently protected during construction. A sheathing type material or heavy cardboard is best. Make sure any printing on it is facing up. Cut it back from the framing about 1/2 an inch to an inch to allow room for sheetrock and baseboards, and easier removal later. Tape the seams well with a good tape, but use painters tape along the edges. Have the painters to still put down plastic. Make sure the plumbers and HVAC guys cut and thread any metal pipe outside on the dirt or grass, to prevent the oil that they use from getting on the floor and/or through the floor covering.
I hope this helps

How can I get stubborn carpet glue removed?

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I was tryng to post this inquiry on your blog but could not figure out how to do so. My exterior concrete porch was covered with a carpet which I removed. I rented a carbide sander which removed most of the glue but there are still stubborn spots throughout. How can I best remove those spots? If they remain, what effect will it have on the stain? Thank you for your assistance.
Hello Dominic
Due to the increased practice of blog spam, by those just trying to obtain links, comments are not allowed at the blog site.
Anyway, the stain will be ineffective anywhere that the glue remains, including where it is still in the pores. You can try using a heavy duty glue remover or a mastic remover to help soften it up and strip it off and out of the pores. You'll need a stiff straw scrub brush for scrubbing as no other type of brush will work nearly as well. Then you'll likely need to sand it some more to get it all the way back to concrete. Then use a good concrete degreaser which will help clean out the pores. Then scrub it down with T.S.P. and rinse well a couple of times and allow to dry.
Or, you can lightly sandblast it.
I hope this helps

Friday, May 3, 2013

Will concrete patching stain a different color from the concrete floor?

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  Q. -  I have an older home and the concrete is most likely the original making it over 30 years old. Over the years there has been some hairline cracks that have developed as well as small holes which I intend to patch. Also I am removing some planters and adding concrete, my question is this: Will your acid stain product be able to blend the new concrete with the old concrete and patch work so that it all looks uniform?
Hello Yousef
   A. -  The patching will likely stain a different color from the existing concrete which is why most people do not patch hairline cracks or small imperfections. If you are going to patch, then first make a small test board of the patch material, say, on a piece of cardboard. Then you can do a color test on the concrete in an out of the way place such as a closet. Also stain the patching test board and compare the two tests. It may be that a second coat of stain on the patches will blend it. Or you may decide to use a different patching material, or you may decide to use a highlighting technique or multiple colors, etc. to blend it all in. Or you could score in patterns or designs and use different colors and/or techniques to make the differences look intentional and creative.
I hope this helps