tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-78279537269390250672024-02-20T14:50:46.247-06:00Concrete Staining Tips, Techniques, Advice, and Troubleshooting Help Concrete staining is indeed an art, but an art that anyone can accomplish.
Welcome to The Concrete Staining Tips Blog. Where You will find helpful tips, techniques, advice, and troubleshooting help. Featuring Q/A postings from the Ask a Pro Series at Concrete Camouflage, on staining concrete floors and exterior, along with sealing concrete, waxing floors, and much more.
For Step by Step instructions, tips, pictures and videos, visit ConcreteCamouflage.comConcrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comBlogger121125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-84534871118727614062017-08-10T14:55:00.001-05:002017-08-10T14:55:27.809-05:00How do I prep new and smooth concrete for sealing?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000"><STRONG>Q. -</STRONG> I have a new (3 month old) concrete basement floor that I would like to seal. I do not want to stain the floor, just seal it. What prep work is required other than cleaning the floor to use <A href="https://www.concretecamouflage.com/cat-decorative-concrete-sealers.cfm">Clear Shield</A> concrete sealer? Does the floor need to be etched? It has a relatively smooth trowel finish.<BR>Thanks, Matt <P style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-TOP: 0px"> </P> <P style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-TOP: 0px"> </P> <DIV style="COLOR: "><FONT style="size: 2"><SPAN> <DIV class=PlainText><STRONG>A. -</STRONG> Essentially it just needs to be clean and dry. However, how smooth or how porous the concrete is directly effects how well the sealer can bond and hold that bond. That's why many sealers and also acrylic stains etc., tell you to etch the concrete first. They're trying to get the concrete as open and porous as possible so their product will have a better chance at not peeling up. <A href="https://www.concretecamouflage.com/pd-clear-shield-premium-decorative-concrete.cfm">Clear Shield Premium</A> was designed to bite into the concrete, which is one reason it outperforms most others. Though Clear Shield sealers are usually put on concrete that has been acid stained (or a broom finish etc.), which means the concrete was lightly etched. So while I don't want to steer you away from acid washing, you may be able to just go over it with a rented floor buffing machine using the aggressive stripping pads and open the pores up enough to be sufficient. If you do decide to acid wash it, then use 1 part muriatic acid to 5 parts water and spray that on and allow to dry. Even though you're not staining the concrete, if you use any kind of acid washing or etching product, you will still have to neutralize it after it has dried (with 4 to 6 ounces of ammonia to 1 gallon of water sprayed on) and rinse it really well a couple of times, just as you would if staining it. If you don't neutralize the acid then the sealer won't be able to hold its bond no matter how rough you got the concrete.<BR><BR>So, it's up to you. The buffer with the black stripping pads will work well so long as you go over it well a few times. You could use T.S.P. (tri-sodium-phosphate (phosphate free of course)) and water with the scrubber and the rinse really well a couple of times and that should do it. Though acid etching is also a fine option and may be a bit less work while opening the pores up a bit better.<BR><BR>Earl</DIV> <DIV class=PlainText><A href="http://www.concretecamouflage.com">www.concretecamouflage.com</A> </DIV></SPAN></FONT></DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-79919516081347699512016-12-11T11:07:00.001-06:002016-12-11T11:07:35.011-06:00How do I fix whiteness or cloudiness in my sealer?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000"><FONT face="Times New Roman">The whiteness is moisture that's trapped. You need to open the sealer so the moisture can escape. If it's in the top surface of the sealer then acetone and a rag or scrub brush will open it enough. If it's deeper in the sealer then you'll need something stronger such as Xylene, Touline, or Xylol. The chemical will open up the sealer rather easily and so long as the air is warm and dry then the moisture will escape and the sealer will then dry back down clear.<BR><BR>Acetone is typically used when there's just a few small spots or small areas with moisture trapped in the surface of the sealer. A little scrubbing with a rag or brush will open up the surface enough and allow the moisture to escape and then dry back down clear.<BR><BR>Xylene is typically used when there's a major amount of moisture trapped and/or the moisture is deep, for instance, if the 2nd coat of sealer was applied before the first coat had completely dried clear, or if applied too heavily, or if applied during very high humidity thereby trapping the moisture deep into the sealer. If the moisture is over a major part of the area but it's trapped in the surface and not deep, simply spraying the xylene onto the surface will do it because the xylene will quickly open the sealer up and encourage the moisture to escape and then dry back down clear. This works many times for moisture trapped deep as well.<BR><BR>If just spraying on Xylene doesn't work, then you'll need to use scrub brushes with the xylene and strip the sealer off, so you can begin again.<BR><BR>Remember that if the temperature is cold or the humidity is high then that slows and/or prohibits the moisture from escaping. However, if it's very hot then the sealer wants to dry back down quicker, perhaps faster than the moisture can escape. So what you want is a warm temp and low humidity as best as you can get it. The humidity is the primary concern. 40% to 50% is a good range, lower is better, but 60% is pushing it and 65% to 70% is a deal breaker. For ideal temps, think tropical. 70 to 80 degrees is great, 90 to 95 or so on the high side is about it, and on the low side, 60 degrees is ok but 50 degrees is pushing it and 45 is absolutely the lowest.<BR><BR>If you just need to spot scrub only for smaller areas, then after it's dry you may want to apply a bit more sealer and feather it out to smooth it out. You'll know once it's dry.<BR><BR>For areas that are just sprayed, you likely won't need to apply any more sealer. Unless you have dry or patchy looking areas once it's dried. Then you'd need to do another overall coat.<BR><BR>For areas that are scrubbed and the sealer is stripped off, you'd need to do 2 coats as you'd be resealing from scratch.<BR><BR>Acetone and Xylene (Xylene, Xylol, Touline) are flammable and aromatic hazardous products but they are overwhelmingly what we've heard works best through the years. You can of course try using safer alternatives such as citrus strippers etc., regardless of what you use though, be sure and read all instructions, warnings, cautions and complete labels. Familiarize <BR>yourself with the products you're using and ensure plenty of ventilation and common sense and keep your work environment safe and productive.<BR><BR>I hope this helps,<BR>Earl</FONT></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-66987436252292735072016-06-30T10:50:00.000-05:002016-06-30T10:51:02.170-05:00Advice for stripping and re-staining a commercial break room<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000"><FONT face="Times New Roman"> <STRONG> Q. -</STRONG> Hello, we are using artist grade concrete camouflage on a commercial employee lounge. After using a gray finish, sealing and waxing, we have decided we would like to go back and use an additional, more brown stain in addition to the gray for a mottled look. We intend to start again and re-buff with the concrete floor sander to remove <BR>the sealer/wax and hopefully open the pours a bit more. This area will have lots of traffic and cafeteria chairs slid around daily. I would like advise on best prep, application this time around. Also, what is the no-fail way to finish off at the door entry? We put tape across the first time but the sealer is now peelable where the tape line is. Thanks! </FONT> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"> <STRONG> A. -</STRONG> It sounds like you know what you're doing. I'll offer some thoughts however, on each subject.<BR><BR>All the sealer must be removed, including in the pores of the concrete for the stain to be able to get in and work properly. Sanding is a good idea, but you would likely want to strip the wax prior to sanding to remove as much as you can. You can use a citrus stripper, glue or paint remover or solvents such as Xylene. Xylene works the fastest and easiest but is highly <BR>flammable and aromatic.<BR>You can find many more instructions and tips by visiting the blog archives and typing in the search bar: sealer </FONT><A style='href: "http://www.concretestaintips.blogspot.com"'><FONT face="Times New Roman">http://www.concretestaintips.blogspot.com</FONT></A><BR><BR><FONT face="Times New Roman">Once you have it stripped and cleaned up, do a final clean with TSP and rinse a couple of times and allow to fully dry.<BR>Because of the intense wear it will receive you need to bare in mind that sealer takes 7 days to fully cure. Any foot traffic on the sealer prior to the 7 days will degrade it's life as the weight of the person compresses the sealer and twisting and sliding of feet can weaken the sealers bond to the concrete. So, once you have applied both coats of sealer or however many <BR>coats you're doing, allow the sealer to cure as many of those 7 days as you can before allowing anyone to enter the room. In typical applications it's not a big deal but with the kind of abuse your setting offers, I'd try to gain every advantage I could. Also, because of the chairs, I would ensure that there are felt pads on the leg bottoms and I would apply 4 initial coats of wax. Allow each coat to dry until completely clear and at least for an hour before applying the next coat. After applying all the coats of wax let the wax cure for at least overnight and preferably 24 hours. Then it's just properly maintaining the floor. Don't use anything harsh to clean it as it could strip the wax. Instead, the floor should be cleaned with mild detergents such as Dove or Ivory dish soaps. Dawn dish soap is a degreasing soap and shouldn't be used. With time, as the floor starts to scuff and dull, it's time to apply a fresh coat of wax.<BR><BR>In regards to the peeling edge at the door, the sealer is peeling there for the same reason that fingernail polish chips and peels at the edge of the nail. The acrylic stops at a blunt edge and so the wear on the edge is tremendous. There's no sure thing trick for that. You could cut an 1/8" deep line in the concrete at the edge so the sealer can roll over into the line. The sealer wouldn't come to a blunt edge stop, as it rolls over the edge and into the cut. That should help a lot and may even be the magic fix but there's no guarantee. The only other things you can do would be to put a thin thresh hold strip or place a mat there.<BR><BR>Here's some links to help you out.<BR><BR></FONT><A style='href: "http://www.concretecamouflage.com/cat-audio-books.cfm"'><FONT face="Times New Roman">http://www.concretecamouflage.com/cat-audio-books.cfm</FONT></A><BR><FONT face="Times New Roman">Free Videos to watch, Full Audio CD & Downloadable Segments<BR><BR></FONT><A style='href: "http://www.concretecamouflage.com/concrete_staining_guide.cfm"'><FONT face="Times New Roman">http://www.concretecamouflage.com/concrete_staining_guide.cfm</FONT></A><BR><FONT face="Times New Roman">Written Instructions & Tips<BR><BR></FONT><A style='href: "http://www.concretecamouflage.com/the_blog_ahhhhh.cfm"'><FONT face="Times New Roman">http://www.concretecamouflage.com/the_blog_ahhhhh.cfm</FONT></A><BR><FONT face="Times New Roman">Blog with recent posts<BR><BR></FONT><A style='href: "http://www.concretestaintips.blogspot.com"'><FONT face="Times New Roman">http://www.concretestaintips.blogspot.com</FONT></A><BR><FONT face="Times New Roman">Complete Blog with Searchable Archives<BR><BR></FONT><A style='href: "http://www.concretecamouflage.com/artist_grade_concrete_stain_co.cfm"'><FONT face="Times New Roman">http://www.concretecamouflage.com/artist_grade_concrete_stain_co.cfm</FONT></A><BR><FONT face="Times New Roman">Color chart page which shows all the colors and their approximate color outcome<BR><BR>I hope this helps,<BR>Earl<BR></FONT><A style='href: "http://www.concretecamouflage.com"'><FONT face="Times New Roman">www.concretecamouflage.com</FONT></A></DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-26758729356593529562016-05-17T12:43:00.001-05:002016-05-17T12:43:39.895-05:00How do I remove sealer and wax from my floor so I can refinish it?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000"><FONT face="Times New Roman"> <STRONG> Q.-</STRONG> I have a floor that was done some time ago and I have 2 dogs. The stain is ok but the sealer and wax is totally scratched up. So I am going to need to get back down to concrete. And reclean and reseal and rewax. I have 1400 sqft. What is the best method to strip back down to concrete?</FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman"> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri></FONT><FONT face=Calibri></FONT><BR></FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman"><BR> <STRONG> A. -</STRONG> The wax, if there is any left, will come up with the sealer. You can remove sealers by using a citrus stripper, xylene, a paint stripper or our Concrete Stain Prep. Xylene would work the fastest and easiest but it's very flammable and aromatic which means needing lots of ventilation and turning off gas and pilot lights, etc., but it's what many contractors use. A citrus stripper or our CSP would still need ventilation but would be much less aromatic. Though it would take a bit more work, it's how most homeowners go.<BR><BR>Essentially, you're going to put the product you choose liberally onto the floor and allow it to sit and eat into the sealer (CSP/ citrus strippers about 20 minutes and xylene a few minutes), adding more as needed to ensure it doesn't dry. Then you'll use a straw scrub brush to scrub and break up the sealer, then using a wide painter's shield that's on a broom handle and acts as a huge scraper, you'll drag the sealer into a pile to pick it up with a square point shovel and put into a bucket for disposal.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT style='face: "Times' New roman?>Remember that whatever product you use, the two secrets are 1: the amount of time you allow it to sit, and 2: using a stiff straw scrub brush</FONT><BR><BR>Work in sections and work your way out, repeat the process as needed to complete the removal and clean up of the sealer and wax. Then let it dry and settle down. Once it's dry you can wash it with t.s.p.(tri-sodium-phosphate) or soap and water. Rinse with clean water a couple of times, changing the water often, and allow to completely dry. Then you're ready to reseal and re-wax.<BR><BR>Since you have dogs I would recommend that you put 4 or 5 initial coats of wax to build up a thicker barrier and help keep any nail scratches from going into the sealer. So long as they're only in the wax, then a fresh coat of wax repairs them quickly and easily. And if you ever do need to remove the wax it's much simpler and less expensive than having to remove sealer. With our wax remover it's just a light scrub and mop.<BR></FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman"><BR>I hope this helps,<BR>Earl<BR><BR></FONT></DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-75492317201590598072015-04-07T09:36:00.001-05:002015-04-07T09:36:49.667-05:00Should I acid stain or paint my patio/porch?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV style="WORD-WRAP: break-word"><SPAN>Q. - We are planning to stain our outside deck and a covered porch. I pressure washed both this weekend and found some areas of concern. I have attached pictures for you. The bleached out area has been under a hot tub for about 9 years so I know the concrete around it is just weathered differently. The other two areas appear to be stained. The larger area has been under a Rubbermaid storage box and the smaller under a rubber door mat. I have not tried TSP on either area yet. I wanted to see if you felt like these ares would cause us to consider painting versus staining the deck due to the color variation that may result after staining.</SPAN><SPAN><BR></SPAN> <DIV><SPAN>Thanks for helping us with this.</SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN><BR></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN><FONT color=#000080>Hello Jeff</FONT></SPAN></DIV></DIV> <DIV style="DISPLAY: inline; FONT-FAMILY: ; WORD-WRAP: break-word; COLOR: ; TEXT-DECORATION: "> <DIV style="LINE-HEIGHT: normal; FONT-FAMILY: "> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5"> <DIV style="font-color: black"><FONT color=#000080 face=Tahoma><B></B></FONT> </DIV> <DIV style="font-color: black"> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 face=Tahoma></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT></DIV></DIV> <DIV style="DISPLAY: inline; FONT-FAMILY: ; WORD-WRAP: break-word; COLOR: ; TEXT-DECORATION: "><FONT face=Tahoma></FONT><FONT color=#000080>A. - If you use paint or acrylic stain (which is the same thing) then it will peel eventually and become a mess to correct. So I would always try acid staining first. If it doesn't work out you can easily paint over it if you choose and the acid in the stain would have actually opened the pores better allowing a paint on product to take better. However, if you paint or acrylic stain first then the prep will include scrubbing, scraping, stripping products, possibly sanding and alot of work to get it ready to acid stain. If you acid stain it, you can always use a second coat on the light areas, or do a highlight coat with the same color or a darker color over it all to blend it better. And depending on the color you use it may just surprise you how well it looks with just one coat overall. Anyway, acid staining is always your best first choice if at all possible.</FONT></DIV></DIV> <DIV style="font-color: black"><FONT color=#000080></FONT> <DIV style="DISPLAY: inline; FONT-FAMILY: ; WORD-WRAP: break-word; COLOR: ; TEXT-DECORATION: "></DIV></DIV></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: ; COLOR: "> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080>Earl</FONT></DIV> <DIV style="DISPLAY: inline; FONT-FAMILY: ; COLOR: ; TEXT-DECORATION: "> <DIV style="LINE-HEIGHT: normal; FONT-FAMILY: "> <DIV></DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5"> <DIV style="font-color: black"><FONT face=Tahoma><B></B></FONT> </DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV> <DIV style="DISPLAY: inline; FONT-FAMILY: ; COLOR: ; TEXT-DECORATION: "> <DIV><SPAN><BR></SPAN></DIV> <DIV> <DIV><SPAN><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 8pt"></FONT></FONT></SPAN></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-30874541358184851182015-02-13T13:29:00.001-06:002015-02-13T13:29:12.483-06:00What are my chances of getting good results on my floor using acid stain?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><STRONG>Q. -</STRONG> How comfortable we could be to obtain a good looking gym with the acid stain as I read it may not give the same color everywhere. Will the result be better by using professionals to do it? Thanks. </FONT></FONT> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#004080>Hello Marc</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#004080></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><FONT color=#004080><STRONG>A. -</STRONG> Acid stain works by chemically reacting with the minerals that are allready present in your concrete. So regardless of who applies it, it is going to be the color it's going to be. Pro's will have experience, technique and expertise unique to each one, so I can't say that a pro wouldn't be a better option to achieve the exact look that you're after, but I can say that you can certainly stain your own concrete with confidence and great results.</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#004080 size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#004080></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#004080>In regards to how well it will work in your particlar situation... There's no product in existence that works out perfectly 100% of the time for 100% of users. There's just too many variables in the real world. Acid stain however, is always the best route with concrete. If you're in the 99+% that it works great for, then you have an awesome looking concrete surface with extremely low maintenance and you did it on the cheap. If you're in the less than 1% that staining concrete doesn't work out for, then you can still cover it however you like as acid staining doesn't get in the way of other products, and you didn't spend a bundle on something that was worth a try but didn't pan out.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#004080></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#004080></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#004080></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#004080></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#004080>I hope this helps,</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#004080>Earl</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#004080>www.ConcreteCamouflage.com</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#004080>800 650 1157</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-17522469951372829612014-03-25T09:39:00.001-05:002018-11-21T13:25:29.686-06:00How do I fix some spots that didn't take the stain well?<div dir="ltr">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> <strong> Q.-</strong> In prepping for stain I sanded the floor with a commercial floor sander, mopped with TSP, removed excess paint from over sprayed wall paint with buffer, scrubbed floor with TSP and rinsed floor with clean water 3 times. Allowed floor 20 hours to dry and applied first coat of stain with second coat of stain applied 4 hours after that. Stain appears to have taken well except in two areas; one, the size of a baseball, appears to be repelling the stain completely. The other, the size of a basketball, hasn't accepted the stain as well as the rest of the concrete. The clean mop water penetrated the entire area to be stained, never indicating that a clear barrier may be present to block the stain. Is there anything that may be done?</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: navy;"><strong> A.-</strong> It may be that another coat is.....</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: navy;"><a href="https://www.concretecamouflage.com/how_to_fix_bad_concrete_stain_job.cfm#fix-stain-t3">Continue Reading Here</a> </span></span></span></div>
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Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-16252339455321647922013-11-15T09:25:00.000-06:002013-11-15T09:26:06.820-06:00How do I get a gloss look on my overlayed floor?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ask a Pro</DIV> <DIV> <HR> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><STRONG>Q. -</STRONG> We had our concrete floor family room textured with an overlayment about 3 weeks ago. The floor polish which was put on is a water-based acrylic polish which is mopped on. I am not happy with the satin finish. I think now that I would like it more glossy.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri>Can I put one of your products over the floor to make it more glossy? The contractor is not giving me straight answers about what I can do because he says there are too many variables. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri>Thank you for any assistance you can give.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV></FONT></FONT> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>Hello Charmagne</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=+0></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><FONT color=#000080><STRONG>A. -</STRONG> You can apply Top Shield Floor Wax by Concrete Camouflage which will give it the gloss. Be sure and do a small test area first before doing the entire floor just to be sure.</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><FONT color=#000080>Earl Choate Ph.D.</FONT> </FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-49332187121617418852013-10-09T10:43:00.000-05:002013-10-09T10:44:07.392-05:00Do I need to wax my stained concrete?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ask a Pro</DIV> <DIV> <HR> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><STRONG>Q. -</STRONG> Hi , do i need to wax it after i sealed it ? or can i just seal it without waxing ? thank you <BR></DIV> <DIV>Hello tam<BR><BR><STRONG>A. –</STRONG> If it's inside then yes, you need to wax it after sealer. If it's outside, then its optional.<BR><BR>Earl<BR><BR></DIV></FONT></FONT></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-81179410708451906262013-09-24T09:02:00.000-05:002013-09-24T09:03:16.090-05:00Is acid stained floors slippery?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ask a Pro <HR> </FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><STRONG>Q. -</STRONG> How slippery is the floor after you have done all the steps? I want to do this over my whole house but I am afraid it may be too slick - especially in the bathroom. Could you add any grit to the sealer? </FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3 face="Times New Roman"></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Hello Alex<BR><BR>A. - It isn't very slippery at all when using Concrete Camouflage products. The acid stain doesn't sit on top. It changes the surface color. The sealer goes on very thin. The Top Shield floor wax has traction additives built in. You can add the traction additive to the sealer if you like but it's really not necessary. Of course any concrete can be slippery when wet but with the floor wax, which was designed for commercial application and has traction qualities built right in, is much less slippery than most other waxes.<BR><BR>Earl<BR><BR></FONT></FONT><BR></DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-26024233178078737942013-08-15T07:23:00.001-05:002013-08-15T07:23:59.720-05:00How do I get the more smooth and marbelized look?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ask a Pro <HR> </FONT></FONT></DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><STRONG>Q -</STRONG> I have looked at all your pictures and some concrete shows more of a textured look and other looks marbled. I would like to know how, if possible, to make mine look marbled and smooth. </FONT></FONT> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT><BR><FONT color=#000080>Hello Carly<BR><BR><STRONG>A -</STRONG> The more marblized look comes from smooth interior concrete naturally. The more stone like look comes from rough or broom finished exterior concrete. Also, adding enough coats of sealer to ensure a good even look and then applying the wax smooths it out too.<BR><BR></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>I hope this helps,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>Earl.</FONT></DIV> <DIV> <DIV> <DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=2><A href="http://www.ConcreteCamouflage.com">www.ConcreteCamouflage.com</A></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=2>800 650 1157</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=2>Earl Choate, Ph.D.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=2><A href="mailto:Earl@ConcreteCamouflage.com">Earl@ConcreteCamouflage.com</A></FONT></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> <DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT><BR><BR></FONT></FONT> </DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-47175379685622673912013-08-04T10:01:00.001-05:002018-12-10T20:24:57.636-06:00Why does my sealer blush out when it rains on it and then dry back clear?<div dir="ltr">
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<span style="font-family: Garamond;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Hope you are well. I watched all the videos, asked you a ton of questions and ordered the artist grade interior stain kit. My project involved smooth concrete on a porch covered by an awning. On the website I did not see a specific difference between the products for interior and exterior projects. I have stained the porch with Riverstone, neutralized thoroughly and put on my first coat of sealer. We have had tons of rain so I am waiting for the opportunity to put down the second coat of sealer. The first coat of sealer is more shiny than expected but not bad-the Riverstone color is perfect! I was very careful to put down a thin coat of the sealer. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Garamond;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">The sealer dried for a couple of days before the next rainstorm. The awning is not up now (but will be soon) and when it rained the porch got very wet. I noticed some small pooling and where the rain pooled, it looked like fresh sealer, kind of blue and milky white. I left the areas alone and the rain dried and everything looks fine. Is this normal? Does this mean the sealer is not completely dry yet? It provided a great surface, not slick and it isn't sticky-maybe the humidity could be affecting it? It will be at least a week before I am able to put on the second coat of sealer... </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Garamond;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Along with the interior kit I received the wax which I ordered in a matte finish. In an earlier response you suggested waxing the porch since it is covered. How long should I wait to wax after applying the second coat of sealer?</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Garamond;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">I am very pleased with the Concrete Camouflage product line and my porch looks great! Just want to make sure I am doing everything correctly.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Garamond;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Thanks for your time (again!),</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Garamond;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Kathy</span></span></div>
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Please take a look at our article on <a href="https://www.concretecamouflage.com/how_to_fix_concrete_sealer_problems.cfm#sealer-issue-1">blotchy sealer issues</a>.</div>
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Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-22401112810658730932013-07-02T11:22:00.001-05:002013-07-02T11:22:53.713-05:00How do I protect a design in my concrete when I stain the concrete around it?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ask a Pro</DIV> <DIV> <HR> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><STRONG> Q. -</STRONG> I have scored and stained a pattern in my broomed concrete. We love it so much we have decided we want to also stain the area outside of the pattern. The problem is with broomed roughness, masking tape does not stick well. I have thought of covering pattern with rubber while I stain outside area. The pattern has been sealed but have read stain can discolor sealer. Any suggestions how I can stain outside area without ruining pattern? Note we really want to spray, not brush, to get the natural look. Thanks!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV></FONT></FONT> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>Hello Sean</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=+0></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><FONT color=#000080><STRONG> A. -</STRONG> Stop by your local hobby store. Pick up some poster board, 3M spray glue, a can of spray gloss and a roll of packaging tape. Cut the poster board to fit/cover the design, then remove it and spray the poster board with the gloss and allow to completely dry. Then spray the 3M glue along the edges on the bottom. Stick the poster board down about a 1/16" to 1/8" back from the edge. Tape the edges with the packaging tape and rub it down really well with your thumb. Tape any seams/overlaps where the sections of posterboard meets itself to seal it.</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>When you spray on the stain, spray straight down rather than at an angle. Instead of spraying one heavy saturating coat, spray a light coat - allow to dry and then another light coat, then another if needed. After the stain has sit for the appropriate drying/reaction time, use some rags to wipe any wet stain off the poster board if there is any. Then neutralize and rinse off the stain from the entire area. Remove the poster board. Rinse everything down again if needed. Allow to dry and then apply your sealer.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>I hope this helps,</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>Earl.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>www.ConcreteCamouflage.com</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>800 650 1157</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>Earl Choate, Ph.D.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-66455134455499755122013-06-25T10:22:00.001-05:002013-06-25T10:22:49.225-05:00New Concrete Prep<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ask a Pro</DIV> <DIV> <HR> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><STRONG>Q. -</STRONG> </FONT><FONT face=Calibri>I am wanting to stain newly poured concrete. What to I need to know and is there anything I need to tell the contractor finishing concrete? </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri>How long does it need to cure? </FONT><FONT face=Calibri>Can I just hose off with water hose? </FONT><FONT face=Calibri>etc. etc.</FONT></DIV></FONT></FONT> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>Hello Cindy </FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=+0></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><FONT color=#000080><STRONG>A. -</STRONG> Tell him to finish it smooth but not too tight. Let it cure for 28 days before staining. Go over it with a floor buffing machine with the aggressive scrubber pads during clean and prep to help open up the pores.</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>Here's some links to help you out.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><A href="http://www.concretecamouflage.com/cat-audio-books.cfm"><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">http://www.concretecamouflage.com/cat-audio-books.cfm</FONT></FONT></A><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> Free Videos to watch, </FONT></FONT><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Full Audio CD & Downloadable Segments</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><A href="http://www.concretecamouflage.com/concrete_staining_guide.cfm"><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">http://www.concretecamouflage.com/concrete_staining_guide.cfm</FONT></FONT></A><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> Written </FONT></FONT><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Instructions & Tips</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><A href="http://www.concretecamouflage.com/the_blog_ahhhhh.cfm"><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">http://www.concretecamouflage.com/the_blog_ahhhhh.cfm</FONT></FONT></A><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> Blog with recent posts</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><A href="http://www.concretestaintips.blogspot.com"><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">http://www.concretestaintips.blogspot.com</FONT></FONT></A><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> Complete Blog with Searchable </FONT></FONT><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Archives.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><A href="http://www.concretecamouflage.com/artist_grade_concrete_stain_co.cfm"><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">http://www.concretecamouflage.com/artist_grade_concrete_stain_co.cfm</FONT></FONT></A><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> Color </FONT></FONT><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">chart page which shows all the colors and their approximate color outcome.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">I hope this helps,</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Earl.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><A href="http://www.ConcreteCamouflage.com">www.ConcreteCamouflage.com</A></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Earl Choate Ph.D.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-77972582229072832122013-05-21T09:24:00.000-05:002013-05-21T09:25:11.954-05:00Can I stain concrete that has Fibermesh in it?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ask a Pro <HR> </FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><STRONG> Q. -</STRONG> The concrete floor has fiberglass reinforcement will there be any issues with using your staining product? Since it is a new floor do I still have to use TSP to clean it or just was with clean water and apply stain? Thank you.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>Hello Michael</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=+0></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080> <STRONG> A. -</STRONG> It should be fine. People stain concrete with Fibermesh all the time. T.S.P. is a really strong soap that deep cleans into the pores of the concrete. It is advised because the stain has to get into the pores to work well. Also, if your floor is really tight(slick) you should use a floor buffing machine with an aggressive scrubber pad to help open the pores. You'll know if you need it by doing the water test. Pour some water on it and observe whether it soaks right in, or just sits there a while or beads up.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>I hope this helps</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-89571145474123255952013-05-13T10:35:00.001-05:002013-05-13T10:35:43.718-05:00When is the best time to stain my concrete floor during new construction?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ask a Pro <HR> </FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> <STRONG> Q. -</STRONG> I've got a large unfinished basement (almost 3,000sqf) that I'm going to be finishing off this summer. I just received my samples of your stain and will be experimenting with it this weekend to decide what color(s) we want to use. I had intially planned to stain and seal the entire basement before putting up the walls, hanging sheetrock, etc. Just one big open space to work with and I wouldn't have to worry about splashing it on the walls, etc. But now I'm wondering if that's the best idea. Am I going to damage the floor by doing that? Would I be better off waiting to do the stain and sealing until after the main construction is done?</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Thanks for your time.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>Hello Shalom</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=+0></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080> <STRONG>A. - </STRONG>Many people cover and protect the floors during construction and wait until last to do the floors. However, most people and all the contractors prefer to stain, seal, and wax it after the walls are framed, but before sheetrock goes up. Then cover it and protect it during construction. Then afterwards, uncover and rewax it to bring back the shine. That way the concrete is protected from anything that might get on the concrete and get into the pores of the concrete accidentally. It's easier to strip the wax and reapply it if something gets on it, as anything minor that gets on it should come up with the wax, rather than to have to be stripping, scrubbing, and possibly sanding the concrete to remove things like paint, glues, oils etc., that would then be a potential blemish on the floor.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080> Regardless of when you do it, the concrete floor must be covered well and diligently protected during construction. A sheathing type material or heavy cardboard is best. Make sure any printing on it is facing up. Cut it back from the framing about 1/2 an inch to an inch to allow room for sheetrock and baseboards, and easier removal later. Tape the seams well with a good tape, but use painters tape along the edges. Have the painters to still put down plastic. Make sure the plumbers and HVAC guys cut and thread any metal pipe outside on the dirt or grass, to prevent the oil that they use from getting on the floor and/or through the floor covering.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>I hope this helps</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-40418322900966781232013-05-13T09:46:00.001-05:002018-06-20T09:54:42.202-05:00How can I get stubborn carpet glue removed?<div dir="ltr">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">I was tryng to post this inquiry on your blog but could not figure out how to do so. My exterior concrete porch was covered with a carpet which I removed. I rented a carbide sander which removed most of the glue but there are still stubborn spots throughout. How can I best remove those spots? If they remain, what effect will it have on the stain? Thank you for your assistance.</span></span></div>
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Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-74041680990063915152013-05-03T11:43:00.001-05:002013-05-03T11:43:55.932-05:00Will concrete patching stain a different color from the concrete floor?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ask a Pro <HR> </FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri> <STRONG>Q. -</STRONG> I have an older home and the concrete is most likely the original making it over 30 years old. Over the years there has been some hairline cracks that have developed as well as small holes which I intend to patch. Also I am removing some planters and adding concrete, my question is this: Will your acid stain product be able to blend the new concrete with the old concrete and patch work so that it all looks uniform?</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>Hello Yousef </FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=+0></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><FONT color=#000080><STRONG> A. -</STRONG> The patching will likely stain a different color from the existing concrete which is why most people do not patch hairline cracks or small imperfections. If you are going to patch, then first make a small test board of the patch material, say, on a piece of cardboard. Then you can do a color test on the concrete in an out of the way place such as a closet. Also stain the patching test board and compare the two tests. It may be that a second coat of stain on the patches will blend it. Or you may decide to use a different patching material, or you may decide to use a highlighting technique or multiple colors, etc. to blend it all in. Or you could score in patterns or designs and use different colors and/or techniques to make the differences look intentional and creative.</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>I hope this helps</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-67951869845450049202013-04-25T13:45:00.000-05:002013-04-25T13:46:05.202-05:00Can I Buff the Top Shield Floor Wax?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ask a Pro <HR> </FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> <STRONG>Q. - </STRONG> I used the your Top Shield floor wax product over my sealed concrete floors and would like to buff them, is that ok and can i do it a week or more after they have been waxed. Will it improve the preformance of the wax?</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Hello Tammy</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> <STRONG>A. -</STRONG> Yes you can buff it. Whenever you feel it could use it. Of course you don't have to and can simply reapply a fresh coat when it starts to scuff or dull, but you certainly can buff it. It will bring out the gloss more and extend the life. Commercial clients do buff their's to prolong it and lengthen the time between reapplication.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-47845043766945188612013-04-24T10:13:00.001-05:002013-04-24T10:13:27.662-05:00Did I use Enough Sealer on My Floor?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ask a Pro</DIV> <DIV> <HR> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"><STRONG> Q. -</STRONG> Ask Your Question Here:: I stained and sealed a 400 square foot room, hallway, and closet. Did I do something wrong if I didn't even use a whole gallon of sealer after two coats? The directions say that I should have used two gallons. I made sure I did thin coats but now I'm worried I made <BR>them too thin? Should I do more coats?<BR>Thanks, Donna </FONT><BR><BR><FONT color=#000080>Hello Donna,<BR><BR> <STRONG>A. -</STRONG> Depending on the porosity of the concrete, some will soak up more sealer as where some will require less. As you have 2 coats down, now look at it overall from a cosmetics viewpoint. Is it smoothed out overall or does some areas look more dry than others? If you have a good even smoothness everywhere then you should be fine with what you have down and can go forward with the final step of waxing. If it's not smooth and even <BR>everywhere and overall, then go ahead with another coat of sealer.<BR><BR></FONT></DIV></FONT></FONT></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-29848304178131339162013-04-17T10:19:00.001-05:002018-12-10T20:15:29.999-06:00I have cloudy areas on my floor. 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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"> <strong> Q. -</strong> Ask Your Question Here:: We did the acid stain, and sealer and wax. There were some areas that had a cloudy patchy look. Should we strip with simple green and reseal the whole floor and then rewax? </span><br />
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<span style="color: navy;">Hello Angela,<br /><br /> <strong> A. -</strong> Cloudiness is usually caused by moisture trapped in either the sealer or the wax. First, let it cure out for a few days and see if the cloudiness goes away on it's own. Many times it will dissapear with a few days of curing time.<br /><br /> If not, then do a small test area. Warm your house up to around 80 degrees F, and apply a thin coat of wax and let dry. If the moisture is trapped in <br />the wax, the fresh coat of wax will open the wax up and the dry warmth will draw the moisture out.<br /><br /> If doesn't work, then do a small test area again. Strip the wax with Simple Green and see if that does it. If so, remove all the wax, allow to <br />completely dry and reapply the wax in 2 coats as thin as possible, allowing it to completely dry between coats.<br /><br /> If removing the wax doesn't remove the cloudiness, then the moisture is trapped in the sealer which means removing the sealer, allowing to <br />completely dry, and then reapply the sealer in 2 coats as thin as possible, allowing it to completely dry between coats. Allow to cure for a few days, <br />and then reapply the wax in 2 coats as thin as possible, allowing it to completely dry between coats.<br /><br /> You can find more on fixing <a href="https://www.concretecamouflage.com/how_to_fix_concrete_sealer_problems.cfm#sealer-issue-1">concrete sealer issues</a> in our full article.<br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: navy; font-family: Times New Roman;"><br />I hope this helps</span></span>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-79442951772533376312013-03-11T12:22:00.001-05:002019-02-26T13:44:24.687-06:00Will the concrete mix of my countertops effect the stain color outcome?<div dir="ltr">
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">I'm a contractor and I'm about to start doing concrete countertops. I'm considering using your products by recommendation. Will the cement mix change the colors of the concrete stain as I've heard?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: navy; font-size: 12pt;">Hello David</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: navy; font-size: 12pt;"> It is true that acid stain is different colors on different slabs of concrete. Applying 1 color to 10 different slabs means 10 different versions of that color. That's the beauty of acid stain, but also why a test must be done for every piece of concrete every time. Especially when it comes to countertops, because the colors are formulated for standard grey concrete that's made from a batch plant and poured from a truck, for foundation slabs, flatwork like driveways, etc. When you do a countertop, the concrete and the mix it is, completely changes the entire ballgame. The stain is reacting chemically with what is present in the concrete mix. Which is why different mixes and batches of concrete create different versions of the stain colors. Changing the concrete mix changes the color reaction and final outcome. A major player especially in countertops and overlays is the portland cement used. As the colors are formulated for a natural grey then using grey does help to an extent, however using a white portland would lighten the colors considerably. Darker browns would be lighter, blacks almost impossible as they would be turned into greys and/or browns.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: navy;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> The best advice I can give for countertops, is to make some sample boards of some different mixes to do some color tests and see how the different portlands and mixes and stains react together. Check out our guide for how to <a href="https://www.concretecamouflage.com/how_to_stain_concrete_countertops.cfm">stain </a></span><a href="https://www.concretecamouflage.com/how_to_stain_concrete_countertops.cfm">concrete</a><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><a href="https://www.concretecamouflage.com/how_to_stain_concrete_countertops.cfm"> countertops</a>. </span></span></span></div>
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Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-6464351547115283682013-02-28T09:53:00.001-06:002013-02-28T09:53:45.044-06:00How should I finish new concrete to be stained?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ask a Pro <HR> </FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><STRONG> Q. -</STRONG> We are building a new house with a finished basement and plan on using your Artist grade stain. The slab will have foam insulation underneath with a vapor barrier.</FONT></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri>How should we specify the finish of the slab to the concrete contractor? How long does the concrete need to cure before we stain it?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>Hello Mike,</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080 size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080> <STRONG> A. -</STRONG> You should have the contractor to finish it with a nice smooth finish, but not too tight. You want it smooth and even but not so tight it's like a mirror. Also, don't let him use a curing agent. Finally, you will want to likely run a floor buffing machine with the scrubber pad, over the floor during clean and prep to ensure the pores of the concrete are opened up well to accept the stain.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080> The concrete needs to cure for 28 days, or until it cures to one uniform color, whichever comes first. The 28 day rule is best.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#000080>I hope this helps,</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV></DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT></DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-44522138989119160702013-01-28T11:24:00.001-06:002018-12-10T20:00:40.203-06:00I have cloudy patches, how can I fix it?<div dir="ltr">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">love your product. love it love it love it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">screwed up too. after we stained it wife put on sealer when it was too cold and waxed right away. now have whitish marks and cloudy patches that are not going away. how do I remove them without screwing up the floor? sealed using ****** **</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Hello Tom,</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> I'm not familiar with the sealer you used. It sounds like a solvent base. If so, then it likely didn't cure long enough before applying the wax. See our full </span>explanation<span style="font-size: 12pt;"> <a href="https://www.concretecamouflage.com/how_to_fix_concrete_sealer_problems.cfm#sealer-issue-1">here</a>. </span></span></div>
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Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7827953726939025067.post-1272274695612231092013-01-21T15:28:00.000-06:002013-01-21T15:29:00.603-06:00Should I Acid Etch the Concrete before Staining it?<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ask a Pro <HR> </FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> <STRONG>Q. -</STRONG> I have looked at other brands of concrete stains and most have an etching chemical that has to be applied first and depending on brand depends on the brand of etching chemical, if I buy this product do I need the etching stuff, and what brand if so???</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#0000a0>Hello Blair,</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#0000a0></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#0000a0></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Calibri><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color=#0000a0> <STRONG> A. -</STRONG> Concrete Camouflage stains are true concrete acid stains, which means they have the acid in them, and so you don't use any etching products during clean and prep or before applying the stain. Products that call themselves concrete stains, yet require the concrete to be acid etched and/or acid washed prior to application are disguised paints and should be avoided if at all possible. Some examples would be acrylic stains and semi transparent or solid color stains. But the one that really cracks me up is any product that pitches themselves as eco friendly or a safer alternative to acid stains, bragging that they have no acids in them. Then they tell you that in order to use their safer, better, eco friendly stain, that you need to acid etch the concrete first. Of course using a far stronger solution of acid than the diluted muriatic/hydrochloric acid (swimming pool acid) that is used in the actual acid stains. Not to mention a another step added to the process.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3 face=Calibri></FONT> </DIV></DIV></DIV>Concrete Stain Pro Deskhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136040995501323101noreply@blogger.com