Monday, January 25, 2010

Is stain ok for pool decks? Should I seal it?

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Hello Gabriel,


Q.- I have concrete around my pool, will the stain hold up to the chemicals of the water?
Yes it will. Acid stain is perfect for pool decks and is used more and more everyday. If you were to visit an amusement park that had water rides or waterfalls, then odds are that the rocks and boulders and waterfalls are all made of concrete and stained with a concrete acid stain.

Q.- If yes, would it be better to seal it?
If you use the new Clear Shield Advanced Formula water base decorative concrete sealer by Concrete Camouflage, then you may want to seal it at least the first time, though you don't have to. The stain is permanent and will hold up fine without being sealed. The surface of the concrete would have to wear away before the color would.
Sealing it will effect the cosmetics, meaning that it will enhance the colors and usually make it look better, while also sealing off the pores of the concrete from both moisture and UV, thereby increasing the lifespan of the concrete. However, If you seal it then it may be more slippery, depending on your concrete finish, so be sure to do a test first.

Q.- If yes, will it be slippery?
Solvent base sealers will definitely be more slippery. The new advanced formula water base concrete sealer by Concrete Camouflage is not near as slippery and on some concrete finishes is not slippery at all. So be sure to do a test first.
Added Advice: You could do both the color tests and the sealer tests on the pool equipment pad.

Friday, January 15, 2010

How do I remove paint from my floor before staining?

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Q. - Hey, thanks for the help. One more question! Can you give any suggestions on stripping the paint and prepping the floor, about 1300 sq.' Thanks again,
 

Hello Greg,

Important:  Be sure to read all labels on all products, including warnings, before opening and/or using.

 A. - If you can use a power washer it would likely take it off easily since it is peeling already. Otherwise...
 
   Ensure you have plenty of ventilation and turn off all heat sources and or pilot lights as well as any gas of course. Then use a stiff straw scrub brush on a broom handle (you can purchase one at Concrete Camouflage if you can't find one local, as most places don't carry them) it is very important that you use a stiff straw scrub brush, they are hard to find, but an absolute necessity. I can't stress the importance of the brush enough. Stiff and Straw. Not a straw push broom, a brush.
 
   Work in sections, working your backwards and out the door.
 
   Anyway,  pour some Xylene (this is very flammable) or a Good Citrus Type Stripper or even a heavy duty glue remover, onto the concrete and let it sit until the paint is softened, keeping it wet and moving around and redistributing the Xylene or Stripper as needed. Then pour some more Xylene or Stripper on and begin to scrub the paint until it reliquifies completely, adding more if needed (don't walk in it). Then use a painters shield or wide scraper ( a painters shield works best) to scrape the paint into a pile and use a square shovel to scoop it up and place it into a bucket to be carried out. You need to get all the paint up, so after it has dried you can repeat if needed. Again, don't walk in it while it is still wet.
 
   After you have stripped as much paint as you can, you may still need to lightly sand the floor to complete, depending on how well it came off during stripping. If you do need to sand it, then you can go to a tool/equipment rental store and rent a commercial floor sander, like used on wood floors, or you can use a floor buffing machine with the sanding disks. Then just give a final clean with T.S.P. and water and a final couple rinsings with clean water only. Allow to dry and you should be good to go.
 
   Pay attention when your mopping it, to see if the water soaks right into the concrete, or if just kinda sits there a while. If it soaks right in, then the stain should also. If the water doesn't soak in and just stands, then you're not through prepping.
 
I hope this helps.
 

Monday, January 11, 2010

What if I acid washed an area?

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Q. - My wife and I have used your products before and were very pleased with the results. We're now finishing the other side of our basement and have everything already ordered and in hand to start staining. We had some water down there a couple of times that caused some rust stains in a couple of spots on the floor. I asked around at local paint shops and big box hardware stores and the consensus answer was muriatic acid to get the rust off of the concrete, so that's what we did.

It was diluted as per the instructions on the container, and it did remove the rust, but it also appears to have 'eaten' away at the top layer of the concrete where it was applied, as this is much more rough to the touch and you can see what's probably sand.

We're planning on staining tonight and I'm really not too concerned about it, but I wanted to check with you to see if there were any dangers in proceeding with staining these areas. Thank you.


Hello Kyle,

There are no dangers, though the acid wash is the worst possible thing you could have done when using concrete stain. However, the good news is that Concrete Camouflage brand of concrete stains will still perform in such a situation when most others will not. Yet it may not take the stain quite as well in that area now. Therefore you will likely need to go heavy in that area and/or plan on letting it dry completely and give it a feathered in second coat.
Also, the roughness will cause the concrete sealer to soak in much more than the rest of the floor, which could cause a dry looking area. So lightly spot seal that area with a coat or two first, and then seal the entire floor, including over those areas. Once you get enough sealer on, and once you get a couple coats of floor wax on, that area should smooth out and be not near as noticeable.

Monday, January 4, 2010

How to use multiple colors for highlighting

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Q. -  Ask Your Question Here:: Can multiple stains be applied to the same surface to create a unique look? If so, would it be applied at the same time or one after another when dry? Perhaps a Leather stain over a Sand stain to add deeper colors in some areas etc? If I score or cut kerf marks in the floor and want to apply different colored stains should I tape off the adjacent area before staining? Also if long scores are done replicating wood flooring is there a way to make the stain have streaks or veins looking like grain or at least a pattern running parallel with the saw marks?
 

Hello Robert,
 
A. -  Yes they can. You would apply the lighter color first and allow to dry completely. Then lightly apply the darker color and allow to dry. Wash it all together.
   You should not tape off the adjecent areas, rather you should use a brush and small bucket. Dip the brush, shake off the excess, set it down away from the edge and brush in a circular motion so that when you reach the edge, the brush is running dry and you are dragging the stain to the edge.
   The Island Sand, or the Rosewood may allow you to apply it and then run a brush down it, leaving brush marks in the finish, replicating wood grain.
    Remeber to do some tests first to be sure of technique and color.