What's the difference between Artist grade, Standard grade, and acrylics?

Ask a Pro

---

 

Q. - can u please tell me the difference between your artist and standard grades of acid stains? also what is the difference between your concrete stains and the acrylic / semi transparent / water base concrete stains that i have seen locally?

 

A. - The difference in our standard and artist grade concrete acid stains is that the Artist grade is a 1 coat acid stain as where the standard grade is a 2 coat acid stain. Therefore you will get double the coverage out of the artist grade. The standard grade is just that, the standard grade of acid stain that you'll find on the market today. The artist grade is pretty much the best that money can buy and actually ends up being a better value per square foot when all is said and done.

   Acrylic stains, semi transparent stains, water base stains, etc. or actually only disguised concrete paints that are using the name "concrete stain" to try and trick you into buying them. Make no mistake, acid stains are the only true concrete stains and are to concrete as wood stain is to wood.

How well and how long does the acid stain hold up?

Ask a Pro

---

Q. -   hello, I love this alot. i have 400 square foot interior new added room, and 200 sft in garage, and i am going to have 500 sf for flat roof deck concrete soon.
before order i want to know = how long this product last for both interior and exterior? do I have to buff or smooth the concrete before apply stain? how good it can handle the heavy traffic or footing over the product? if there are scratches after all applied then how to fix this?

thanks,
please reply, because we never done this before? alot of my friend want to do it but have the same question like me.

 

Hello Luong tran,

 

A. -  The artist grade stain by Concrete Camouflage is permanent and will last for the life of the concrete's surface, as it is a chemical reaction that actually changes the color of the surface of the concrete.

   You do not have to buff the concrete. However, extremely smooth finished concrete will take the stain better if you do use a floor buffing machine on it with the scrubby pads, when you clean it, to help open up the pores of the concrete.

   It handles heavy traffic just fine. When indoors you will Seal it with our Clear Shield Advanced concrete sealer and use our Top Shield floor wax which will last for several months before it starts to scuff or dull and when it does, you just apply a fresh coat and it's back to brand new. When outdoors you can seal it or not and it will be fine.

   If the scratches are in the sealer or wax then a fresh coat of sealer or wax will fix it. If the scratches go down into the concrete then you can apply more stain to the scratches.

 

I hope this helps.

Help! I'm not happy with the stain color and I sealed it! What should I do?

Ask a Pro

---

 

Q. -  Please help if you can. I stained my floor and I'm not happy with the color. The thing is though, I went ahead and sealed it. What can I do to correct it?

 

Hello Joe,

 

A. -  You'll have to strip the sealer completely off, then re-stain it, re-seal it, and then wax it. Here's how:

Important: Be sure to read all labels on all products, including all warnings, instructions, and cautions before opening and/or using.

Ensure you have plenty of ventilation and turn off all heat sources and or pilot lights as well as any gas of course.

 

   Use a stiff straw scrub brush on a broom handle (you can purchase one at Concrete Camouflage if you can't find one local, as most places don't carry them) it is very important that you use a stiff straw scrub brush, they are hard to find, but an absolute necessity. I can't stress the importance of the brush enough. Stiff and Straw. Not a straw push broom, a brush. If you don't use a stiff straw brush it means much more work for you with not near as good of results.

 

   To strip the sealer you will use Xylene also known as Xylol or Toulene (this is very flammable and aromatic) or you can use a Good Citrus Type Stripper that would be less flammable and aromatic.

 

   Anyway, pour some Xylene or Stripper onto the concrete, whichever you prefer, and let it sit until the sealer is softened, keeping it wet and moving it around and redistributing the Xylene or Stripper as needed. Then pour some more Xylene or Stripper on and begin to scrub the sealer until it reliquifies completely, adding more if needed (don't walk in it). Then use a painters shield or wide scraper ( a painters shield works best) to scrape the sealer into a pile and use a square shovel to scoop it up and place it into a bucket to be carried out. Work in sections and work your way out. Allow to dry and repeat if needed. It's important to not only get all the sealer off the concrete, but also out of the concrete's pores. So you'll likely have to do it a couple times.

 

   You can lightly sand it if you don't get all the sealer up or if you would like to sand down the existing stain. Sanding the existing stain is not really needed because you want the stain to have variation in the colors, with darks and lights and highs and lows, that's the beauty of acid stain. So if you choose to sand it, it would be mainly to ensure you have all the sealer out of the pores of the concrete, or just that you want to sand down the color for your particular desired color effect and darkness. If you do sand it, you can use a rented floor sander or floor buffing machine with the fine grit sanding disks.

 

   Once you have completely stripped the sealer and sanded if needed, you can then re-apply a fresh coat of stain and allow it to completely dry and sit for 24 hours. Neutralize it using 8 oz ammonia to each mop bucket of water and then rinse it a couple more times with clean water only. Allow it to dry. If you want it darker than what one coat gives you then you can do a second coat.

 

   After you are happy with the color, then you can re-apply the sealer. As before, apply one very thin and even coat of sealer and allow to completely dry. Then apply the second very thin and even coat of sealer and allow to completely dry and cure. Try to apply each coat of sealer in opposite directions if possible. For instance, go east/west on one coat and north/south on the other.

 

   Finally, apply a thin coat of our Top Shield floor wax with a Lamb's wool applicator and a paint pan. Allow to completely dry, about an hour or so. Apply a second thin coat of Top Shield floor wax. Allow to dry overnight.

 

   The floor will now be more beautiful, more scuff resistant, and less slippery than before. When the floor does start to scuff or dull, simply clean, allow to dry, and apply a fresh coat of wax.

 

I hope this helps.

I ran short of stain. What should I do?

Ask a Pro 

---

 

Q. -    I ran short of stain on my patio project. I have ordered another gallon of stain, but what do I do in the mean time. Should I leave the concrete as it is, or should I neutralize the stain that has already been applied?  How should I care for the concrete while waiting for the additional stain to arrive? I need some quick answers.

 

A. -   Go ahead and neutralize the stain and rinse off the concrete.

   When you apply the rest of the stain, if you overlap the stain that is already applied, then it would be a second coat which would create a darker area or a line. So unless you stopped at a place where you can start again without overlapping, you'll need to feather it in and possibly lightly overspray a second highlight coat over the whole thing to ensure it's blended well.

 

   If you need to feather it, it's done by raising the sprayer wand from the foot or so above the concrete when applying it to the unstained concrete, to waist or shoulder height as you feather into the already stained area. Try to not go any farther past the edge of already stained concrete than you have to, and raise the wand quickly when feathering.

 

   To highlight a second coat, after you finish applying the remaining areas of the first coat, you will simply take what stain is left over and add water to it until you have enough to lightly mist a coat over the entire area. Then hold the wand at either waist level for a darker coat, or at shoulder height for a lighter coat. You can also raise and lower your arm from waist to shoulder height as you spray on the second coat to achieve a more mottled look with deeper highs and lows.

What if I get acid stain on my vegetation?

Ask a Pro

---

 

Q. -  want to use a acid stain, but am concerned for the surrounding vegetation. I have some mature trees close to the patio/ sidewalk that we are staining.

Hello Keith,

 

A. -  Just be sure to not directly spray the vegetation when applying the stain. And to use plenty of water when rinsing the residue off later, and it should be fine.

   Vegetation does brown and die back when the stain gets on it, even the residue wash off can brown it out a little - which is why you flood rinse it when washing the residue, so as to dilute it with allot of water.

   NOTE: Of course, you could always mop the residue up, just as you would if you were doing an interior project.

 

   I remember several years back when my wife decided to acid stain some of our concrete statuary yard art. She got set up on the side of the yard and just as she began spraying the acid stain onto the statuary pieces, the wind started blowing. The wind blew stain all over this large shrub that was nearby. Though she wasn't amused by my laughing, in just seconds that bush went from a beautiful green to a dripping, dripping, dripping... dark brown. Anyway, the shrub did die back and being busy(lazy) I decided to leave it until next spring and then replace it. Next spring that bush began to come back and this day is one of the larger and more healthy bushes in our yard.

   So while you never want to directly spray vegetation with acid stain, life is resilient, and the acid in the stain is the same as used in swimming pools.

 

  IN CONCLUSION:  Just be careful to keep the stain off the vegetation as much as you can, including the residue wash off. Use plenty of water when rinsing and do the project on a non windy day.

I used another companies products and now have a mess. Please Help!

Ask a Pro

---

Q. - Ok, using another companies products, we acid stained our floor to the color we wanted. (neutralized, too.) First coat of water based sealer went on OK except for a few white bubbles which rollered out. Next coat of sealer had larger white areas. Told to use xylene, it worked. Disti said to apply a two part water based sealer now. First coat OK, final coat BAD!!! Huge areas of blisters. They supplied a steel wool pad for a rented machine and basically kissed off.
The pad has removed stain color as well as sealers (expected). What are our options? SHould we restain the places, and then try to seal the entire area? (Not all is blistered) We've read on your "ask" site that spraying is good, and we would like to avoid the sealer roller marks we had before.
SHould we just take it all down and start over? Are polyurethanes easier to deal with? This is an unairconditioned area, which I read makes for warmer concrete and issues. Any help you can give would be appreciated. THanks!

 

Hello Jacque,

 

A. - It has been a hot summer and too much heat can effect these types of products adversely. Anyway, on to the fix.

   You should finish removing all the sealer and as much of the stain as you can first (if there is any left), which means getting the sealer out of the pores of the concrete as well as the surface. You can use a rented floor buffing machine with scrub pads, and even a fine grit sanding pad if needed. You will need to clean it with Concrete Camouflage C.S.P. - Degreaser, once. Then a final clean with T.S.P(tri-sodium-phosphate), and two clean water rinsings. Then let it dry.(Not bone dry - just dry.)

 

   Once the floor is dry, you can apply the stain. Use the Concrete Camouflage Artist Grade concrete acid stain. We suggest that you spray it on rather than brushing it, especially since you're in a warm area, and it is important to work from wet edge to wet edge. Allow the stain to dry for several hours and even up to 24 hours.

   Then neutralize the stain with ammonia and water, and do two clean water rinsings. Remember to change your water often.

 

   Once the floor is dry, then you can apply two coats of Concrete Camouflage Clear Shield Advanced formula water base decorative concrete sealer. Roll on one coat as thin and as even as you can. It goes on white and dries clear. When it has dried completely, roll on the second coat as thin and as even as you can, and try to go in a different direction if possible, with the second coat.

 

   After the sealer has cured out dry and clear, which we suggest you give it a couple of days at least, then apply two coats of Concrete Camouflage Top Shield mop on style floor wax. Apply it in as thin and as even of coats as possible also, though you will use a lamb's wool applicator and a paint pan to apply the wax. The wax usually takes about an hour to dry between coats and needs to cure for at least two hours, though overnight is best.

 

Important Note: The heat will cause these types of products to be less user friendly than in a cooler environment. Therefore, you should schedule to do each phase of the project in the coolest part of the day, which is usually early morning as the air and the concrete both have had all night to cool down.

   To answer your last question, as polyurethanes are a two part/two phase product they would be even more difficult to work with in a warmer environment.

How do I prep the floor, after pulling up glue down carpet?

Ask a Pro

---

Q. -  Hello, I have glue down carpet on my concrete floors. What is the best way to clean and smooth the concrete surface before applying the products.

----Continue Reading----

See our full blog post and answer on removing carpet glue

Why do I have blisters in my sealer?

Ask a Pro

---

Q. -  We've used a solvent base sealer product two seasons now and both times were done in proper weather conditions and both times bubbled (blistered). Could this be because surface of patio is hotter then outside temp (although we applied it one year at 6am and the other time at 8pm) or is it because we're putting it on too thick? This condition is after first or second coat, didn't make a difference.

Hello Bill

A. -  When solvent base sealers blister during application, it's because the temperature of the surface it is being applied to and/or the air temperature is too hot.

Which tape is best for creating a pattern or border?

Ask a Pro

---

 

Q. -  When doing a  complicated pattern, what type of masking tape do you use?

 

Hello Chris,

 

A. -  The best tape you can use to create a pattern and/or a border on concrete when concrete staining, is actually a packaging tape. The kind that is a clearish looking, with the strings that run through it. You can find the packaging tape that has the strings running through it (clearish - like a plastic type of tape or a heavy duty scotch tape sort of tape - just be sure that it is not a paper tape, and that it does have the strings running through it) at about any packaging store, ups, fedex, etc.

Why do I see more red in some areas than others?

Ask a Pro

---

 

Q. -  I stained with island sand applied using a garden sprayer in a circular motion.  Surface was scrubbed with TSP and rinsed thoroughly before applying.  There are noticeable redder marks in some areas.  I think the overall look is good still, but is there a reason for this?

Hello Sean,

 

A. - The stain works by chemically reacting with the lime, cement, and minerals in the concrete, to change the pores and surface of the concrete to the new and permanent color. When your concrete was originally poured into place, that lime and cement and all the other components were randomly dispersed throughout.

   The stain is simply reacting with what is there and where it is. Of course you can highlight with other colors if you like, but if you're happy with it you may want to just leave it alone.

   Another consideration is that if you seal it, then that will change the color's appearance as well. The solvent base sealer will make it look as it does when saturated wet with water, and the water base sealer will make it look as it does when it is damp with water.

Do I wash the neutralized residue into my pool or on my plants?

Ask a Pro

---

 

Q. - I'm an amateur who is doing concrete staining on a very old concrete deck around my pool.   

I will be finishing with your new water-based sealer.  Am ready to neutralize the acid stain, but am worried about using ammonia near my reed grasses. They grow nearby, separated from the concrete by a row of railroad ties that are sunk into the ground, so the neutralizing product will wash over the ties when I am rinsing.  If I rinse toward the pool what effect will that have on the chlorinated water in the pool?  Will I end up staining the poll lining with the rinsewater run-off? What do you suggest?

 

Hello Karen,

 

A. - It may be best if you just mop it, as you would an interior floor. That will keep any run off from causing a problem. Once you've neutralized it and mopped it with clean water only, then you could use the hose to flush rinse it once more and get any mop fuzzies off. Rinse towards the grass not the pool.

Will the sealer and wax smooth out a rough floor?

Ask a Pro

---

Q. -  I have a fairly rough surface after using a diamond headed grinder to get surface ready. The floor is kind of rough.  Will the sealer and wax make the floor seem to feel smooth?

Hello Trent,

A. -  If you use enough sealer then it can fill in and smooth over the porosity. A solvent base sealer which is applied generously will fill in a
rough area quicker than a water base sealer as it is applied thinly. However, even though you are using allot of sealer in several coats, while
allowing it to dry between coats, and even though the most of the sealer is being soaked up into the pores of the concrete, you must still bare in mind that many sealers will turn yellow or cloudy when you use too much and it begins to get too thick. Concrete Camouflage brand of sealers are capable of being applied in very thick applications while not turning. So I believe that the answer to your question is yes, you should be able to considerably smooth out if not completely smooth out a rough concrete surface using the Concrete Camouflage brand of sealers and wax.
   The afore mentioned is in regard to cosmetics, the look if the concrete. The feel of it will be of a sealed and waxed surface even if you only do the standard two coats.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com
800 650 1157

How do I fix an old, dull, and scuffed up stained floor?

Ask a Pro

---

 

Q. -  I had my basement floor stamped concrete(acid stain) I've noticed that the floor is dull and my kids sneaker marks are all over the floor. Can you suggest any polish I can use to put the shine back like a wax and how to remove the scuff marks. I've tried various cleaners and nothing seems to work.

 

Hello Karen,

A. -  You can remove the sneaker marks with a citrus stripper or heavy duty glue remover from a local store, or you can order the Concrete Stain Prep stripper from Concrete Camouflage which should remove them quite easily as it is used to remove tire marks from driveways and garages. It wouldn't take much because you would spot strip the marks and then mix the stripper with water in a mop bucket and use it to mop and thoroughly clean the floor. Mix 1 quart of CSP to a mop bucket of clean water. Afterwards you would mop it a couple times with clean water only, ensuring you change the water often.
   Then you should apply two coats of Clear Shield Advanced decorative concrete sealer and then two coats of Top Shield mop on style floor wax, both by Concrete Camouflage.

Can I cover the stain while it dries?

Ask a Pro

---

 

Q. -  During this time of year in my area storms are frequent and unpredictable. My question: once the stain has been applied and is (mostly) dry can it be covered with any kind of waterproof cover for the duration of the 24 hour curing period? Or, will it react and mess-up the final result?
Thanks!

Hello Lyn,

 

A. -  It should be left open if at all possible. If a covering was to sit down on the concrete it would print the concrete much like walking in it would leave footprints. Also, many waterproof coverings will have the effect of not allowing the concrete to dry. Therefore, if at all possible you should wait for a good weather window. Of course if rain was to wash it off and it didn't have enough reaction time to create a good color, then you could apply an additional coat of stain once it dries out, but again this is not the preferred method.

 

 

To cover and protect the walls and baseboards or not?

Ask a Pro

---

 

Q. -  I'm fixing to stain the floor of my garage and paint the walls.  Would it be OK if I stained the floor without protecting the molding and the wall since I plan to paint it?  I guess the real question is:  Will the stain harm wood or sheet rock?  Would covering it with a good paint be easy?

 

Hello William,

 

A. -  The concrete stain will stain the walls and wood a darker color and make it harder to paint as any darker surface would be. I would recommend you either cover it or at least use a painters shield on a handle to help protect the walls as much as you can. The stain will not have a destructive effect on the sheetrock or wood, but why make more work for yourself doing all those extra coats of paint to blend it in if you can easily prevent it.