What's the difference between the artist grade and standard grade concrete stains? I want a marble look.

Ask a Pro

---

 

   Q. -  i was wondering what the diference in artist grade and regular grade acid stain ? we want the marble look and was wondering witch one we needed to use ? it is a new construction with a slick floor. thanks

 

Hello Mike,

 

   A. -  Other than the different color choices, the Concrete Camouflage artist grade is a one coat stain and the standard grade is a two coat stain. Therefore, you will get twice the coverage from the artist grade, than from the standard grade. On your concrete slab, you would expect a maximum of 400 sq.ft. per gallon using the artist grade, and 200 sq.ft. with the standard grade.

   You can of course, do more coats of either stain if you choose, to achieve a darker color, different colors, or to do additional coats for artistic, highlighting, and/or camouflaging, etc..

 

   As your concrete stain project is new construction and slick finished, you will first want to be sure that there is no curing agent on the concrete. If there is a curing agent, then you'll need to strip and/or lightly sand the surface to completely remove it from both the concrete's surface and pores.

   Since you mentioned the desire to achieve as much marbleization as possible, you should be aware that the more you sand the surface the more that you reduce the marbleization. Therefore, you're better off to remove as much as you can with strippers, and keep the sanding to a light minimum, using more of a fine sandpaper, or a floor buffing machine with the fine sanding disks.

 

   Otherwise, if you don't have a curing agent, as slickened concrete tends to close off the surface pores, thereby reducing the effectiveness of concrete acid stains, you will likely need to use a floor buffing machine with the aggressive scrubber pads during the cleaning stage, to really open up the pores of the concrete well, so the concrete stain can get in completely and achieve maximum reaction.

 

I hope this helps.

Advice on Patching Concrete and Using Decorative Taping to Create a Border.

Ask a Pro

---

Dear Earl,

Sorry, I have a few more questions.

 

Hello Kimberly,

No problem at all. We're happy to help all that we can.

 

 1) Would you recommend cleaning with the TSP prior to patching the tack strip holes or patch and then clean?

 

    A. -  You need to ensure that concrete is as clean and dry and dust free as possible to ensure the best chances for the patch to stay in place. The sealer and wax will help to hold it down, but if the patch loses its bond then it will pop out, so there is no replacement for good and adequate prep. Therefore, yes. I would use the T.S.P. and water to thoroughly clean the concrete to be patched first. Be sure and rinse it a couple times with clean water afterwards.

   NOTE: A little extra advice just in case you need it. After you apply the patching material and smooth it out as best that you can, you need to let it dry and cure for at least a day or two, more if it's curing slowly. Then you will use a concrete rubbing stone to rub it and smooth it out, which will feather it into the concrete. It's like sanding bondo on a car body repair to smooth it out, which helps it to disappear into the surrounding area. The rubbing stone can be found in the concrete tools area at your local lumber yard or home improvement store. If going to a local home improvement store then the concrete tools are usually down at the lumber end with the sacks of concrete and concrete patching materials. It looks like a small rectangular cinder block with a handle on it, and it will make the patch blend in and smooth down quickly and easily.

 

 2) Also which do you think would be the best method of applying the stain with the tape, using the brush method or the 2 light coats of stain?

 

    A. - If you're going to use a different color or do multiple coats on the border, or certain areas, then I would brush on the border and/or decorative areas, and then spray the rest of the floor. If you're using a darker color on the border, or say, opposing blocks - you can apply the darker color with the brush and then spray the entire floor with the lighter color, including over the darker brushed on areas because the darker color will overpower the lighter color anyway.

   If you're using the tape as a design in the floor but using the same color overall then I would just spray it all and forego the brush.

 

   NOTE: Be sure and rub the tape down really well, especially along the edges, and be sure to not saturate the tape too much because the stain will try to get underneath it, which is why you drag the stain up to the tape when brushing, and why you spray directly down over the tape with two lighter coats, rather than spraying at an angle or spraying heavier coats.

 

Thanks for all of your help!

Best regards,

I hope this helps,

ConcreteCamouflage.com

 

Will the stain penetrate a thin layer of paint on the floor?

Ask a Pro

---

   Q. -  Hello- I am wondering if the stain will penetrate a very thin layer of paint...I have pulled up the carpeting from my lower level and it appears that the developer let some paint hit the floor when he was spaying the walls. It is very random and I don't mind it. I was thinking of just sealing and waxing the floor but I think I want it to be a bit darker. Please let me know when you have a chance. Thank you.

Hello Mark,

 

   A. -  The concrete stain will not stain nor penetrate paint. You need to strip and/or lightly sand the paint to remove it first. You can use paint strippers, or citrus strippers, or even heavy duty glue removers which work very well. For sanding you can use a belt sander for small areas, or you can rent a floor sander like they use on wood floors, or you could even use a floor buffing machine with the sanding disks which keeps it inexpensive and easy to do.

 

My older and painted floor is peeling. What should I do?

Ask a Pro

---

   Q. -  It seems that most over your tips are about new concrete. I wanted to know how and what products to paint an older floor that is painted but the paint has pealed.

Hello Harriet,

 

   A. -  You should completely remove all the existing paint, and then use the concrete acid stain, sealer, and wax, using Concrete Camouflage products, and the directions and tips online at ConcreteCamouflage.com 

 

   The paint can be stripped off using a citrus stripper or a heavy duty glue remover, and then, if there is still any paint left, including in the pores of the concrete, you can sand it with a rented floor sander or a floor buffing machine using the sanding disks. Then you should be ready to go forward with the concrete acid stain, sealer, and wax.

 

   IMPORTANT: You should not use paints or acrylic stains(which are just disguised paints) because it will just peel again. Only concrete acid stain is real concrete stain, like what wood stain is to wood, so don't let anyone fool you.

 

I hope this helps

 

Can I use your sealer on a kitchen concrete countertop where I prepare food?

Ask a Pro

---

   Q. -  I am looking to use a sealer for concrete counter tops.  Is your sealer safe for kitchen counter top use, food handling, etc.?

Hello Kim,

    A. -  Clear Shield Advanced concrete sealer by Concrete Camouflage is a pure acrylic water based sealer made for all types of concrete. It is approved for use in FDA inspected facilities. Many people have used it on their concrete countertops for years now, and we have had no complaints at all.

   However, with that being said, we do not condone or recommend it's use on surfaces where food will be prepared directly on the sealed surface. Therefore, if you choose to use it on your countertop(s), we suggest that you prepare any foods on cutting boards or other such countertop coverings. Both to protect the sealer from any damage when preparing foods and of course to ensure that you do not take any chances when it comes to protecting yourself and your families health.

   We make this suggestion not only in regards to our sealer but with any sealer, and with all concrete countertops, regardless of what any particular manufacturer or sales person might say.

If your looking for a how to guide for stained concrete countertops , check out our step by step guide.

I hope this helps

I don't want a glossy finish on my floor. Do I have to seal it and wax it?

Ask a Pro

---

 

   Q. -  My concrete floor has been done really badly.
Now I want to give it a colour to make it more equal,
but I don't want this shining sealer layer on top of it.
Is it necessary to use the sealer or can I can skipp that part.
Best,

Hello Marleen,

 

   A. -  While you don't absolutely have to, it's a really good idea to seal it and then wax it. This will protect and thereby greatly extend the life of the floor and make cleaning and maintenance much easier, and less expensive in the long term. Fortunately for you, Concrete Camouflage has a satin finish sealer and also a matte finish mop on style wax available. So you can have the best of both worlds. A protected and easy to clean floor along with not having to have the glossy finish that you want to avoid.

 

I hope this helps

 

I have milky white areas after applying the mop on wax. Why and how can I fix it?

Ask a Pro

---

 

   Q. -  I recently purchased some no buff wax (matte) and applied it this past weekend. I applied two coats, with it being over 24 hrs. I know have a milky film on 60% of the floor. The question I have is how can I fix this?
thanks,

 

 

Hello Eric,

 

   A. -  It's most likely caused by moisture which is either trapped under the wax or trapped in the sealer.

 

   If you applied it to a floor that has been sealed with a solvent base sealer, and the sealer hadn't cured well enough, then the water in the wax can penetrate into the solvent base sealer and cause it to turn milky as the water becomes trapped in the sealer. If this is the case then that would mean having to strip the wax and sealer, and then start over with new sealer and new wax, allowing the solvent base sealer to completely cure before applying the wax. Solvents take several days to cure out, and that is just one of several reasons why solvents are quickly becoming the dinosaurs of decorative concrete.

 

   If you applied it to a cured floor, then the floor must have not been completely dry when you applied the wax, or you didn't allow it to dry completely enough between coats. If this is the case, then you should allow it to sit for a couple more days to see if the moisture will escape and thereby correct itself. If not, then you will have to strip the wax and re-apply it, ensuring that the floor is completely dry before re-applying it and ensuring that wax dries completely between coats. You can easily strip the wax off with Simple Green.

 

   While rare, it could also be that moisture is wicking up through the concrete. This can be the case on certain exterior applications and also on certain basement floors, though it can also happen on house slabs too, if the concrete company didn't use a vapor barrier (plastic on the ground) when pouring the concrete.

 

   Finally, if you stained the floor and did not seal it prior to applying the wax, then that would mean that it is either one of the above situations, or the stain was not properly neutralized and is having a reaction with the wax. Which would mean stripping the wax, further neutralizing the stain, applying sealer, and rewaxing. Of course ensuring that the floor completely dries between each step and coat of product.

 

I hope this helps

 

Do you have teaching seminars? How long does your products last? Good for high traffic?

Ask a Pro

---

 

   Q. -  HELLO , I WANT TO KNOW IF THIS PRODUCT IS GOOD FOR HIGH TRAFIC AREA.HOW LONG DOES IT LAST.DO YOU CONDUCT TRAINING.

 

Hello Jessey,

 

   A. - Concrete Camouflage products are great for high traffic. The stain is permanent, the wax last for months, and if you properly maintain your Concrete Camouflage stained, sealed, and/or waxed surface, then they'll last indefinately.

 

   We don't take advantage of people with expensive training seminars. We simply sell an audio guide cd that has more info than dozens of dvd's and/or several seminars combined. We follow that up with both email and toll free telephone assistance as needed.

 

I hope this helps.

Can I Wax my Driveway?

Ask a Pro

---

 

  Q. -  I have  a driveway that was overlay , acid stained, a two coats of oil base clear. I mop it but still doesnt look like new 3 months ago. Can i wax it to keep it looking like new? or what do I do to make it look great all the time

 

Hello Vernon,

 

  A. -  The wax would help to keep it nice, just as a floor. And when it does start to scuff or dull, you just apply a fresh coat. However, while our wax has been used extensively in garages and on exterior porches and patios, to put it on a driveway would be the first time I've ever heard of it being done, and I'm not sure how it would hold up to the vehicular traffic.

 

   It sounds like the sealer is not holding up well. Perhaps you should consider applying our sealer over your existing sealer first to see if that would do it. Our sealer is quite good and holds up quite well. It's a water base acrylic and should be fine to apply right over your existing sealer.

 

   Regardless of whether you decide to apply our sealer, or go ahead with the wax, I would suggest that you first purchase a small sample size bottle and just do a small test area first to be sure that you'll be happy with the results. Of course the wax can be stripped off easily if doesn't work, but there's no sense in spending that much to do the entire project before you are sure that you'll get the results that you're after.

 

   The only cautions that I can think of in regards to the wax on the driveway are these. The wax will strip off with Simple Green, which means that oil drips, gas drips, harsh chemicals, etc will also strip it. Also, when there is standing water on the wax it will turn a milky white, though once it dries it will dry back to clear as it was before. Finally, I don't know about hot tire pickup. While we haven't seen any in the garages, a driveway is an entirely different thing as it has the direct sun and more traffic. So again, you should do a test area where you'll be driving over it before applying it to the entire area.

 

I hope this helps.

 

How many square feet does the project kits cover?

Ask a Pro

---

 

   Q. -  I am interesting in purchasing a concrete stain kit, however, i would like to know the surface coverage to determine how much i would need for my project.

 

Hello Damion,

 

   A. -  The project kits are customizable to fit your square footage needs. When you click on the kit of your choice, then you will select your color, and then you will select how many square feet that you need to cover. Then the amount of products your ordering along with the price will adjust accordingly.

 

   Also, once you click on the project kit of your choice, whether it be interior or exterior, standard grade or artist grade, it will explain how much product you will be receiving, per each square foot increment.

 

I hope this helps

 

My wax has milky white areas. How do I correct this?

Ask a Pro

---

 

Q. -  I just applied your Mop On floor wax and followed the directions precisely--cleaned my newly stained floor which was completed 2 months ago.  I applied the wax with the lambs wool applicator and applied very thin coat--sprayed on with a spray applicator and then used the wool to apply evenly.  Now I have several locations where it turned really white and milky.  Any suggestions as to why or what I can do to correct?

Hello Dawn,

 

   The wax should never be sprayed on. It should only be applied per the application instructions. Anyway, it is most likely that either the floor still had moisture on it when the wax was applied, or it was applied to thick. I would let it sit for a couple days to see if the problem corrects itself. If not, then you'll need to strip those areas, allow to completely dry, and then re-apply. The wax can be stripped with ammonia and water, though Simple Green works much easier and better to strip it.

 

I hope this helps.

Should I Use Stencil to Create a Pattern on My Floor?

Ask a Pro

---

 

   Q. -  I want to use a old chigcago brick stencil pattern, with a stain, on a interior floor. Is it possible to do that without making a huge mess of the project? Would it ever work without getting all in the mortar joints?

Hello Jeremy,

 

    A. -  I think in the end, that you would be disappointed using stencil, as the stain really likes to bleed under. The tape would work much better, though it would still have the flat look.

   The technique that would really work the best and look absolutely real, is staining the entire floor, drawing the pattern out with a carpenter pencil and/or chalk line with blue chalk(never use red chalk), and then grinding in the pattern with a 4-1/2" angle grinder and a masonry blade. You can use a picture of the brick pattern as a guide to see how the lines should go. You can use a chalk line or a pencil for the long lines, and the pencil for the short lines. The grinder will quickly score down the mortar joint to natural concrete and because the mortar joint will be lower than the brick/concrete surface, the depth will attain the 3D effect and look real. The mortar joints don't have to be perfect in respect to the depthness, actually a variance looks good and makes for even more realism, and besides, once it's sealed and waxed, you won't really see a variance anyway.

   Alternatively, you can grind in the pattern first and then stain the floor. That would allow the stain to collect into the joints and stain them slightly darker than the concrete surface, and therefore appear that you colored the mortar when laying the bricks. The depth and 3D effect along with the slightly darker joint color would cause the pattern to still stand out as effectively as grinding afterwards. But you decide which you think would look the best.

 

I hope this helps,

Earl

 

Earl Choate, Ph.D.

Concrete Camouflage

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

 

Oh No! I got stain on concrete I didn't intend to stain! How do I deal with it?

Ask a Pro

---

   Q. -  Thank you so much for re-sending the download!  Also, despite our best efforts, some stain leaked on to the concrete under our taped plastic leaving a stain outside the intended area.  Any advice on how to lighten it? Thanks again!

Hello AnneMarie,

    A. -  We've written a post on how to fix accidentally stained concrete 

Do I need to seal after staining? Is the temperature a factor when concrete staining?

Ask a Pro

---

 

   Q. -  My project is covered porch.  Will I need to seal after staining?  Is outside temperature a factor in concrete staining?

Hello Evelyn,

 

    A. -  You do not need to seal the concrete if using the Artist grade concrete acid stain, though it does add to the look.

The temp needs to be a minimum of 35 degrees F to stain and not going to get below freezing for at least 4 hours, preferably for 12 hours.

   To seal, it has to be 45 degrees F and not going to get below freezing for at least 12 hours and preferably 24 hours.

 

   There is no real maximum temp but you should try to not stain and/or seal in extreme heat, such as 95 degrees F and above. Rather, try to do it in the cool part of the day when in summertime or in very hot areas.

 

I hope this helps.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

 

 

What's best to remove paint before staining a floor?

Ask a Pro

---

 

   Q. -  what would be the best thing to use to remove the paint and sealer off the floor a floor grinder or chemical it is approx 4600 sq.ft and a restuarant

Hello Brett,

 

    A. -  The best thing is to use paint strippers, glue removers, or Xylene. What helps the most though is a stiff straw scrub brush like sold at www.ConcreteCamouflage.com. It takes about 90% of the work out of stripping. Use painters shields as scrapers because they're about 2' wide or wider which helps. Use square end shovels and buckets to scoop it up and carry it out. You may need to go over it a couple times.

   You can use a good degreaser to help lift it out of the pores of the concrete after stripping it if you like.

 

   Once you've stripped all you can with the strippers/removers, use a rented floor sander, like they use on wood floors, or even a rented floor buffing machine with the sanding disks on it to lightly sand it the rest of the way down to a good smooth finish and completely back to concrete.

 

   Be sure and do a test in a closet or out of the way place with the stain before doing the entire project.

 

I hope this helps.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com