I have a variance in the sheen of my sealer in places, should I apply a third coat?

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   Q. -  I just put 2 coats of sealer (clear shield advanced from concrete camouflage) on my floor last night. When i checked it this morning you can still see a variance in the sheen it a few places. Do you recommend a third coat or will the wax take care of this? BTW the artist grade concrete stain by concrete camouflage did a great job on the acid etched floor. Thank you.

 

Hello Bob,

 

   I would go ahead with another coat of sealer to smooth it out, before applying the wax. The wax may take care of it, but if it doesn't then you'd be removing the wax and applying more sealer anyway.

   However, if you don't have enough sealer to do a third coat, you should do a test before ordering more. You can put a two foot square section of wax down, that half of it covers a smoothed out part and half of it covers a lower sheen part. If it works out then you can go ahead and apply your wax. If it doesn't work and you see you'll need to apply more sealer, then strip off the wax with Simple Green and go forward with your third coat of sealer.

 

   Tip: Now that we're in Summer time heat, it's important to remember that the sealer will try to dry faster which can cause sheen variance and/or roller marks much more easily. Therefore, try to do all sealing in the cooler part of the day, and preferably in shade, if possible. Early morning is really the best because the concrete isn't heated up from the day, as it's had all night to cool off.

 

   Also, thank you for the report on the artist grade concrete stain working well on your floor, which had been previously acid etched. While acid washing or acid etching concrete renders standard grade concrete stains useless and unable to work, it's nice to hear the Artist Grade Concrete Acid Stain by Concrete Camouflage is still doing the job that the others can't.

 

I hope this helps.

 

My floor looks cloudy after I waxed it, what went wrong?

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   Q. -  I recently resealed and waxed my floors with Concrete Camouflage concrete sealer and floor wax. I applied the sealant (2 coats) based on the instructions. I then waited about 12-14 hours until beginning to wax.  The floor was completely dry and no issues that I could see. I put one coat of wax on the floor. After about 8 hours, we checked on the floor. In the right light and right angle, it had an extremely cloudy look to it. However, its not cloudy all over.  There are some spots where it looks perfect.  As we talked and moved around the house, it seemed like the cloudiness was moving across the floor?  The more places we looked, the more it cropped up?

   Can you fathom what I could've done wrong? Any assistance or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hello Luke,

 

   A. -  It sounds like the sealer may have not cured enough before you applied the coat of wax, which allowed moisture from the wax to penetrate the sealers surface and make it cloudy.

 

   You should first give it a day or so to see if the moisture escapes and the problem corrects itself. If it does, then you can apply your second coat of wax.

   If it doesn't clear up in a couple (low humidity and warm) days, then the wax is preventing the moisture from wicking out and escaping, meaning you will need to strip the wax (Simple Green works well) and then let it sit for a couple days or so. The Clear Shield Advanced concrete sealer by Concrete Camouflage will allow the moisture to wick through and escape. Once it does, then you can re-apply the wax.

 

I hope this helps

 

Will the acid stain still work on an Acid Etched Floor?

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   Q. -  If my floor has been acid etched can I still stain it.

 

Hello Bob,

 

   A. -  Not with a standard grade acid stain. However, the Artist Grade from Concrete Camouflage is very successful at staining acid etched floors, when all the others can't, though it won't be as rich of a color as it would have been. You should order an 8 oz bottle and test it in a closet or out of the way place.

 

   Apply the stain and allow it to dry and sit for 24 hours. Easily neutralize and rinse it off. If you want the color darker, then after it dries apply another coat as before.

 

I hope this helps

 

I have flaking sealer and faded areas on some old stamped concrete. How can I fix it?

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   Q. -   I have a Large area of Stamped Concrete, Grey in color around my pool.  It is about 10 years old.  I have sealed it every other year.  It is starting to pit / flake in certain areas and the color is very faded.  What product should I use to paint or stain it to give it a fresh look.  Thank you

Hello Michael,

   If it's the sealer that is flaking off, then what appears to be faded concrete color may simply be an unsealed surface that would come back to life once the sealer was re-applied. Check out our article on concrete sealer problems for a full walk through. 

I have swirl marks in my stain. What can I do?

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   Q. -  I've stained my floors with a concrete acid stain project kit. I used a brush, mistake on my part. I noticed swirl marks as I was doing the post-stain clean up. I have neutralized and rinsed, but have not applied any kind of sealer. Can I do touch-up work with my remaining stain?

Hello Benny,

 

   A. -  Yes. You need to spray on another coat of stain, which will help quite a bit to cover and camouflage the brush marks. Use an all plastic pump up sprayer. You can add water to the stain that you have left if you need to, to ensure that you have enough for the entire area. Spray on a fresh coat of stain, spraying on enough to lightly saturate the concrete but certainly not enough to puddle it, or that it would run if it were on an incline.

 

   Note: The additional coat will darken the color.

 

Should I fill deep saw cuts when staining exterior concrete, like sidewalks and patios?

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   Q. -   What about sidewalks and concrete slabs with deep scores?  Can I keep them, but ensure that they are perfectly clear of dirt and dust before staining?  Would I need to fill the scores?  What do I fill them with?

Hello Cathi,

 

   A . -  I wouldn't suggest filling the scores, or saw cuts, unless that's the structurally correct thing to do. They could be expansion areas and any filler would just pop out later, or they could be water access points causing damage and need to be filled. 

   So first, ascertain whether or not and/or which ones should be addressed. If you do decide to fill them then you can use a concrete patching material, mortar, or crack repair material. Though you may want to consider using Deco-Seal. It's what they put between a pool deck and the pool coping at the inside edge of the pool. It allows for contraction/expansion, is custom colored at the time of application so it can be made to blend in or stand out artistically, is topped with a light sand covering which increases the attractiveness and the traction, and it's fairly inexpensive. Though it will usually need maintained about every two to three years, which can include repairs and/or complete removal/redo.

 

   Of course, you could also use hot oil, which would last longer, but would tend to be quite messy and much less attractive.

 

   If you use mortar or a concrete patching material and want to stain it as well, then you need to first know that it will likely stain a different color from the concrete, so you should make sample boards using a few potential filler materials, allow them to dry, and stain them to see what the colors will be, before doing the entire project.

 

   Once ready, you will clean the concrete well such as powerwashing and/or scrubbing with a stiff straw scrub brush and T.S.P. (tri sodium phosphate), rinse well and allow the concrete to dry.

 

   You can use leaf blowers to speed up the drying and also prior to applying the filler material to remove any dust.

 

   If you use a cement filler and want to stain it also, then apply the filler material before acid staining the project.

   If you use a non cementious filler like Deco-Seal or caulking, that can't be stained, or if you use a cement filler but don't want to stain it, then you should acid stain the concrete first, neutralize and rinse, allow to dry and then apply the filler.

 

   It is highly recommended that you seal the entire area, at least the first time, to help enhance and lock in your new look.

 

I hope this helps.

 

What's the difference between the artist grade and standard grade concrete stains? I want a marble look.

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   Q. -  i was wondering what the diference in artist grade and regular grade acid stain ? we want the marble look and was wondering witch one we needed to use ? it is a new construction with a slick floor. thanks

 

Hello Mike,

 

   A. -  Other than the different color choices, the Concrete Camouflage artist grade is a one coat stain and the standard grade is a two coat stain. Therefore, you will get twice the coverage from the artist grade, than from the standard grade. On your concrete slab, you would expect a maximum of 400 sq.ft. per gallon using the artist grade, and 200 sq.ft. with the standard grade.

   You can of course, do more coats of either stain if you choose, to achieve a darker color, different colors, or to do additional coats for artistic, highlighting, and/or camouflaging, etc..

 

   As your concrete stain project is new construction and slick finished, you will first want to be sure that there is no curing agent on the concrete. If there is a curing agent, then you'll need to strip and/or lightly sand the surface to completely remove it from both the concrete's surface and pores.

   Since you mentioned the desire to achieve as much marbleization as possible, you should be aware that the more you sand the surface the more that you reduce the marbleization. Therefore, you're better off to remove as much as you can with strippers, and keep the sanding to a light minimum, using more of a fine sandpaper, or a floor buffing machine with the fine sanding disks.

 

   Otherwise, if you don't have a curing agent, as slickened concrete tends to close off the surface pores, thereby reducing the effectiveness of concrete acid stains, you will likely need to use a floor buffing machine with the aggressive scrubber pads during the cleaning stage, to really open up the pores of the concrete well, so the concrete stain can get in completely and achieve maximum reaction.

 

I hope this helps.

Advice on Patching Concrete and Using Decorative Taping to Create a Border.

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Dear Earl,

Sorry, I have a few more questions.

 

Hello Kimberly,

No problem at all. We're happy to help all that we can.

 

 1) Would you recommend cleaning with the TSP prior to patching the tack strip holes or patch and then clean?

 

    A. -  You need to ensure that concrete is as clean and dry and dust free as possible to ensure the best chances for the patch to stay in place. The sealer and wax will help to hold it down, but if the patch loses its bond then it will pop out, so there is no replacement for good and adequate prep. Therefore, yes. I would use the T.S.P. and water to thoroughly clean the concrete to be patched first. Be sure and rinse it a couple times with clean water afterwards.

   NOTE: A little extra advice just in case you need it. After you apply the patching material and smooth it out as best that you can, you need to let it dry and cure for at least a day or two, more if it's curing slowly. Then you will use a concrete rubbing stone to rub it and smooth it out, which will feather it into the concrete. It's like sanding bondo on a car body repair to smooth it out, which helps it to disappear into the surrounding area. The rubbing stone can be found in the concrete tools area at your local lumber yard or home improvement store. If going to a local home improvement store then the concrete tools are usually down at the lumber end with the sacks of concrete and concrete patching materials. It looks like a small rectangular cinder block with a handle on it, and it will make the patch blend in and smooth down quickly and easily.

 

 2) Also which do you think would be the best method of applying the stain with the tape, using the brush method or the 2 light coats of stain?

 

    A. - If you're going to use a different color or do multiple coats on the border, or certain areas, then I would brush on the border and/or decorative areas, and then spray the rest of the floor. If you're using a darker color on the border, or say, opposing blocks - you can apply the darker color with the brush and then spray the entire floor with the lighter color, including over the darker brushed on areas because the darker color will overpower the lighter color anyway.

   If you're using the tape as a design in the floor but using the same color overall then I would just spray it all and forego the brush.

 

   NOTE: Be sure and rub the tape down really well, especially along the edges, and be sure to not saturate the tape too much because the stain will try to get underneath it, which is why you drag the stain up to the tape when brushing, and why you spray directly down over the tape with two lighter coats, rather than spraying at an angle or spraying heavier coats.

 

Thanks for all of your help!

Best regards,

I hope this helps,

ConcreteCamouflage.com

 

Will the stain penetrate a thin layer of paint on the floor?

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   Q. -  Hello- I am wondering if the stain will penetrate a very thin layer of paint...I have pulled up the carpeting from my lower level and it appears that the developer let some paint hit the floor when he was spaying the walls. It is very random and I don't mind it. I was thinking of just sealing and waxing the floor but I think I want it to be a bit darker. Please let me know when you have a chance. Thank you.

Hello Mark,

 

   A. -  The concrete stain will not stain nor penetrate paint. You need to strip and/or lightly sand the paint to remove it first. You can use paint strippers, or citrus strippers, or even heavy duty glue removers which work very well. For sanding you can use a belt sander for small areas, or you can rent a floor sander like they use on wood floors, or you could even use a floor buffing machine with the sanding disks which keeps it inexpensive and easy to do.

 

My older and painted floor is peeling. What should I do?

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   Q. -  It seems that most over your tips are about new concrete. I wanted to know how and what products to paint an older floor that is painted but the paint has pealed.

Hello Harriet,

 

   A. -  You should completely remove all the existing paint, and then use the concrete acid stain, sealer, and wax, using Concrete Camouflage products, and the directions and tips online at ConcreteCamouflage.com 

 

   The paint can be stripped off using a citrus stripper or a heavy duty glue remover, and then, if there is still any paint left, including in the pores of the concrete, you can sand it with a rented floor sander or a floor buffing machine using the sanding disks. Then you should be ready to go forward with the concrete acid stain, sealer, and wax.

 

   IMPORTANT: You should not use paints or acrylic stains(which are just disguised paints) because it will just peel again. Only concrete acid stain is real concrete stain, like what wood stain is to wood, so don't let anyone fool you.

 

I hope this helps

 

Can I use your sealer on a kitchen concrete countertop where I prepare food?

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   Q. -  I am looking to use a sealer for concrete counter tops.  Is your sealer safe for kitchen counter top use, food handling, etc.?

Hello Kim,

    A. -  Clear Shield Advanced concrete sealer by Concrete Camouflage is a pure acrylic water based sealer made for all types of concrete. It is approved for use in FDA inspected facilities. Many people have used it on their concrete countertops for years now, and we have had no complaints at all.

   However, with that being said, we do not condone or recommend it's use on surfaces where food will be prepared directly on the sealed surface. Therefore, if you choose to use it on your countertop(s), we suggest that you prepare any foods on cutting boards or other such countertop coverings. Both to protect the sealer from any damage when preparing foods and of course to ensure that you do not take any chances when it comes to protecting yourself and your families health.

   We make this suggestion not only in regards to our sealer but with any sealer, and with all concrete countertops, regardless of what any particular manufacturer or sales person might say.

If your looking for a how to guide for stained concrete countertops , check out our step by step guide.

I hope this helps

I don't want a glossy finish on my floor. Do I have to seal it and wax it?

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   Q. -  My concrete floor has been done really badly.
Now I want to give it a colour to make it more equal,
but I don't want this shining sealer layer on top of it.
Is it necessary to use the sealer or can I can skipp that part.
Best,

Hello Marleen,

 

   A. -  While you don't absolutely have to, it's a really good idea to seal it and then wax it. This will protect and thereby greatly extend the life of the floor and make cleaning and maintenance much easier, and less expensive in the long term. Fortunately for you, Concrete Camouflage has a satin finish sealer and also a matte finish mop on style wax available. So you can have the best of both worlds. A protected and easy to clean floor along with not having to have the glossy finish that you want to avoid.

 

I hope this helps

 

I have milky white areas after applying the mop on wax. Why and how can I fix it?

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   Q. -  I recently purchased some no buff wax (matte) and applied it this past weekend. I applied two coats, with it being over 24 hrs. I know have a milky film on 60% of the floor. The question I have is how can I fix this?
thanks,

 

 

Hello Eric,

 

   A. -  It's most likely caused by moisture which is either trapped under the wax or trapped in the sealer.

 

   If you applied it to a floor that has been sealed with a solvent base sealer, and the sealer hadn't cured well enough, then the water in the wax can penetrate into the solvent base sealer and cause it to turn milky as the water becomes trapped in the sealer. If this is the case then that would mean having to strip the wax and sealer, and then start over with new sealer and new wax, allowing the solvent base sealer to completely cure before applying the wax. Solvents take several days to cure out, and that is just one of several reasons why solvents are quickly becoming the dinosaurs of decorative concrete.

 

   If you applied it to a cured floor, then the floor must have not been completely dry when you applied the wax, or you didn't allow it to dry completely enough between coats. If this is the case, then you should allow it to sit for a couple more days to see if the moisture will escape and thereby correct itself. If not, then you will have to strip the wax and re-apply it, ensuring that the floor is completely dry before re-applying it and ensuring that wax dries completely between coats. You can easily strip the wax off with Simple Green.

 

   While rare, it could also be that moisture is wicking up through the concrete. This can be the case on certain exterior applications and also on certain basement floors, though it can also happen on house slabs too, if the concrete company didn't use a vapor barrier (plastic on the ground) when pouring the concrete.

 

   Finally, if you stained the floor and did not seal it prior to applying the wax, then that would mean that it is either one of the above situations, or the stain was not properly neutralized and is having a reaction with the wax. Which would mean stripping the wax, further neutralizing the stain, applying sealer, and rewaxing. Of course ensuring that the floor completely dries between each step and coat of product.

 

I hope this helps

 

Do you have teaching seminars? How long does your products last? Good for high traffic?

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   Q. -  HELLO , I WANT TO KNOW IF THIS PRODUCT IS GOOD FOR HIGH TRAFIC AREA.HOW LONG DOES IT LAST.DO YOU CONDUCT TRAINING.

 

Hello Jessey,

 

   A. - Concrete Camouflage products are great for high traffic. The stain is permanent, the wax last for months, and if you properly maintain your Concrete Camouflage stained, sealed, and/or waxed surface, then they'll last indefinately.

 

   We don't take advantage of people with expensive training seminars. We simply sell an audio guide cd that has more info than dozens of dvd's and/or several seminars combined. We follow that up with both email and toll free telephone assistance as needed.

 

I hope this helps.

Can I Wax my Driveway?

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  Q. -  I have  a driveway that was overlay , acid stained, a two coats of oil base clear. I mop it but still doesnt look like new 3 months ago. Can i wax it to keep it looking like new? or what do I do to make it look great all the time

 

Hello Vernon,

 

  A. -  The wax would help to keep it nice, just as a floor. And when it does start to scuff or dull, you just apply a fresh coat. However, while our wax has been used extensively in garages and on exterior porches and patios, to put it on a driveway would be the first time I've ever heard of it being done, and I'm not sure how it would hold up to the vehicular traffic.

 

   It sounds like the sealer is not holding up well. Perhaps you should consider applying our sealer over your existing sealer first to see if that would do it. Our sealer is quite good and holds up quite well. It's a water base acrylic and should be fine to apply right over your existing sealer.

 

   Regardless of whether you decide to apply our sealer, or go ahead with the wax, I would suggest that you first purchase a small sample size bottle and just do a small test area first to be sure that you'll be happy with the results. Of course the wax can be stripped off easily if doesn't work, but there's no sense in spending that much to do the entire project before you are sure that you'll get the results that you're after.

 

   The only cautions that I can think of in regards to the wax on the driveway are these. The wax will strip off with Simple Green, which means that oil drips, gas drips, harsh chemicals, etc will also strip it. Also, when there is standing water on the wax it will turn a milky white, though once it dries it will dry back to clear as it was before. Finally, I don't know about hot tire pickup. While we haven't seen any in the garages, a driveway is an entirely different thing as it has the direct sun and more traffic. So again, you should do a test area where you'll be driving over it before applying it to the entire area.

 

I hope this helps.